2005 Tenuta della Seta Rovisci Rosso di Montepulciano

($16; a blend of prugnolo gentile, lanaiolo nero and merlot) Medium ruby. P enetrating red cherry and redcurrant aromas are followed up on the palate by similarly juicy flavors with a pretty mineral quality. Clean and lively, this relies on its acids more than on its fruit and tannins for structure, leaving the mouth feeling fresh and clean on the moderately persistent finish.


2004 Tenuta della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Rovisci

($20) Full ruby. Lovely sappy sangiovese nose of pomegranate and sour cherry with a citrus twist. Fresh and lively on the palate, with ripe but lithe red fruit flavors and a moderately long, peppery finish. Though it may seem a little light at first, this has sneaky concentration and very fine balance. (Marc de Grazia; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

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