Also recommended: 2005 Barco Reale di Carmignano (85), 2003 Ghiaie della Furba Toscana Rosso (85). (Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY)

2004 Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Villa di Capezzana

($25; an 80/20 blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon) Medium ruby. Pretty floral, effusively fruity aromas of juicy red cherry and redcurrant; curiously, the sangiovese dominates the cabernet for a change. Sappy and fresh on the palate, with plenty of juicy, mouthwatering red fruit, this is dense and minerally and possesses surprising creaminess considering its bright acids. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and very good length.


2003 Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Trefiano

(($45;75% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 10% canaiolo nero) Very deep ruby. Overripe, almost stewed fruit aromas speak of the hot vintage, which is a bit curious since Carmignano is a much cooler part of Tuscany. Spicy plum, mint, mineral and licorice flavors are sweet and densely packed. Shows a firm edge on the moderately long finish, with dryish tannins.


2000 Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano (half bottle)

($35) Medium-deep gold. Highish volatile acidity is immediately apparent, delivering extra freshness to the honeyed almond and hazelnut aromas. Very intense and complex on the palate, with great acidity keeping the dried apricot, orange marmalade and honey flavors fresh and long. A lighter style of Vin Santo, but a wine with unbelievable refinement and grace on the nearly interminable finish.

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