Also recommended: 2004 Chianti Classico San Leonino (85), 2004 Monsenese Chianti Classico Riserva San Leonino (86). (Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA)

2004 TreRose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

($22) Moderately deep red. Ripe, enticing nose of strawberry, red cherry, orange zest and herbs. Bright acids nicely frame the red fruit flavors, giving this wine lift and a delicate light touch on the moderately long finish. There are mounting, still-youthful tannins but enough fruit to leave a lingering aftertaste of fleshy, ripe cherry.


2003 TreRose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Simposio

($51) Pretty medium ruby, actually lighter than the '04 basic Nobile. Austere, closed nose nonetheless shows good depth to its red fruit and spice aromas. The delicate, subtle black cherry, spicy red plum and black pepper flavors are similar to the aromas and linger nicely on the fine-grained, moderately long finish. This pleasant midweight doesn't have quite the flesh for a higher score, but it's a well-made example of a more restrained style of Nobile and a success for the vintage. From a selection of the best sangiovese grapes grown on the estate's 60 hectares.


1995 TreRose Vin Santo di Montepulciano

Bright golden-amber. Very intense almond, toffee, caramel and lemon zest aromas are complicated by a sweet note of white chocolate. Quite sweet and rich on the palate, with generous flavors of dried apricot and peach, hazelnut and caramel-toffee, plus lingering notes of coffee and white chocolate. This boasts mouthfilling concentration and richness, and a lovely soft texture, but a touch more acidity would have given it more lift and clarity, and extended the finish. Still, this is a very satisfying glass of Vin Santo.

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