Other wines tasted: 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva. (F&F Fine Wines International, Rutherford, NJ)

2004 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico

($33) Medium-dark ruby. Menthol-rich nose relies mainly on oak for its aromatic profile, with little fruit shining through at present. On entry, ripe black fruits, smoke and mint greet the taster, with an initially soft mouth feel, but this a bit tart toward the back and the finish is rather attenuated. Give this some time in bottle or serve it with food.

87

2001 Villa Cafaggio San Martino Toscana Rosso

($75; 100% sangiovese) Dark ruby. Intriguing aromas of cola and powdered stone, with none of the intense menthol character of some of the other wines of this estate. Offers a pleasantly ripe, round mouth feel, with flavors of red cherry, grapefruit, sausage and mushroom. This finishes with good persistence, but the tannins still need some time to resolve.

88
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