Other wines tasted: 2004 Cuatro Rayas Fermentado en Barrica Rueda. (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

2006 Agricola Castellana Pampano Blanco Rueda

($10) Light yellow. Salty citrus and apple on the nose, with an exotic licorice accent. Soft citrus and orchard fruit flavors betray a hint of sweetness and pick up a salty note on the back. Interesting stuff, with good complexity and a nice balance of ripe and zesty fruits.


2006 Agricola Castellana Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Rueda

($14) Pale gold. Intense lemon zest and minerals on the nose, with riper apple and peach notes arriving with air. Offers an energetic melange of fruits and minerals and finishes clean, brisk and refreshingly bitter. I'd serve this with raw clams.


2006 Agricola Castellana Verdejo Azumbre Vendimia Selecciona Rueda

($16) Green-gold. Pungent citrus, pear and yellow plum aromas are enlivened by zesty minerals and anise. Strikingly energetic and concentrated, with powerful pit and orchard fruit flavors braced by citrus zest and pith notes. Finishes sappy and impressively long. The vines used for this are reportedly over 60 years old.

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