2006 Bodegas Altun Albiker Joven Rioja

($20) Bright ruby. Expressive red berry aromas are untouched by earth or animal qualities. Straightforward raspberry and blackberry flavors display inviting sweetness and depth. Mighty appealing, if not particularly complex.

87

2004 Bodegas Altun Crianza Rioja

($24) Dark red. Smoky raspberry and blackcurrant aromas are gently accented by Asian spices and mocha. Firm, sharply defined red fruit flavors give way to sweeter dark berry liqueur, with a dusty minerality carrying into the finish. An impressive blend of juicy fruit and suave earthiness, with the balance to repay at least a few years of cellaring.

90

2001 Bodegas Altun Reserva Rioja

($32) Bright red. Pungent, floral-accented redcurrant and raspberry scents are energized by zesty mineral and fresh floral qualities. Brooding dark berry flavors are impressively concentrated and seem a bit hard-edged-or maybe that's just a function of youth. Slow-building licorice and bitter chocolate qualities add to the serious mien. Takes a sweet, sappy turn on the finish, which shows admirable punch and an echo of licorice.

91+?
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