Also recommended: 2003 Masia Esplanes Montsant (85). (Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA)

2003 Cellers Capafons-Osso Masos d'en Cubells Priorat

($55) Deep red. Smoky raspberry and kirsch aromas are deepened by anise, tobacco and roasted coffee. Ripe red and dark berry flavors betray the warmth so common in this vintage. Solid tannins build on the weighty, chewy finish. This needs hearty food.


2003 Cellers Capafons-Osso Mas de Masos Priorat

($70) Ruby-red. Powerful kirsch and cassis aromas are distinctly ripe and complemented by vanilla and smoky herb qualities. Weighty dark berry and cherry flavors display a dense, meaty character, with roasted coffee and bitter chocolate accents. Firm tannins build on the long, vaguely tarry finish. Lots of material here but also lots of 2003 personality.

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