Also recommended: 2004 Pissarres Priorat (86). (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

2004 Costers del Priorat Clos Cypres Priorat

($65) Deep ruby. Smoky, oak spice-accented kirsch and cassis aromas are brightened by zesty minerals and fresh flowers. Sweet cherry/berry flavors display a strong vanillin oak sweetness and deeper bitter chocolate and espresso qualities. A moderately tannic midweight that shows an open-knit, immediately accessible quality but also possesses ample concentration to repay cellaring. A flavor of licorice lingers on the long, seductively supple finish.

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