2005 Bodegas Covitoro Cermeno Toro

($12) Youthful purple. Ripe blackberry and plum on the nose, with a sweet mocha accent. Brighter red berry flavors are gently textured, with no apparent tannins or tough edges. Broad and sweet on the easygoing finish, which displays a highly appealing if straightforward lusciousness. (Beacon Wine Company, San Francisco, CA)

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