2003 Bodegas Cuevas Jimenez Ferratus Ribera del Duero

($42) Deep ruby. Ripe cassis and blackberry aromas are strongly accented by toasty oak spices and exotic incense. The dark fruit flavors repeat on the creamy palate, along with a sweet, vanilla-influenced character and soft but prominent tannins. Impressive for its concentration and sweetness but certain to rankle traditionalists. What would this have been like with lighter oak treatment? (Vinamericas Selections, Miami Beach, FL)

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