2004 Cellers Escoda Rivero Isaral Priorat

($45; 60% carignane and 20% each of grenache and cabernet sauvignon) Deep red. Intensely perfumed nose offers an array of red berry and forest floor qualities brightened by suave baking spices and flowers. Medium in weight, with bright cherry and red berry liqueur flavors complicated by anise and mocha. Supple tannins build on the close, adding structural support to the sweet fruit.

90

2004 Cellers Escoda Rivero Prior Pons Priorat

($64; 45% carignane, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 15% grenache) Dark ruby. Seductively perfumed bouquet of ripe cherry, blackcurrant, licorice, tobacco, espresso and graphite. Youthfully taut initially but opens to display powerful flavors of kirsch, cassis, cocoa and floral pastille. Tannins are buffered by dense, sweet fruit but kick in on the finish. This impressively concentrated, complex wine has the sweetness to offer pleasure in the near future, provided it gets some time in a decanter. (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

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