Also recommended: 2006 Callejo Cuatro Mesas en Barrica Ribera del Duero (85), 2004 Callejo Crianza Ribera. del Duero (86), 2003 Callejo Reserva Ribera del Duero (86). (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

2004 Bodegas Felix Callejo Seleccion de Vinedos de la Familia Ribera Del Duero

($112) Inky purple. Explosively perfumed nose offers sexy oak-spiced blackberry and creme de cassis aromas sweetened by vanilla and mocha. Lush, creamy and sweet, with suave dark berry preserve flavors and an undercurrent of baking spices. Fruitcake and roasted coffee notes define the long, velvety finish. This emphatically modern Ribera del Duero wine is sure to drive traditionalists up the wall.


2001 Bodegas Felix Callejo Gran Callejo Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva

($75) Deep ruby. Oak-spiced red berry and kirsch aromas are complicated by mocha, succulent herbs and dried flowers. A chewy, sweet midweight, displaying a range of red and dark berry flavors and finishing with solid tannins, perhaps a result of the strong wood influence. Rich and sweet on the back, with the oak tones echoing. I know that this is the style, but I do find the strong oak to be distracting.

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