2004 Finca Sobreno Crianza Toro

($18; 100% tempranillo) Ruby-red. Musky cherry and blackberry aromas are deepened by tobacco and graphite. Chewy, medium-bodied and meaty, with bitter cherry and plum jam flavors propped up by firm tannins. Juicy dark berries define the moderately long, spicy finish. This might unwind with a year or so of aging.


2001 Finca Sobreno Seleccion Especial Toro

($33; 100% tempranillo) Ruby-red. Expansive, oak-accented blueberry and creme de cassis aromas display powerful vanilla, bourbon and cured tobacco nuances. The velvety dark berry flavors verge on liqueur-like but are firmed by juicy acidity and braced by firm tannins. Sweetness builds on the long, sappy finish, as do strong baking spice qualities. Makes an impression but how much of that is oak? (J & D Selections, Winchester, VA)

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