2006 Bodegas Guelbenzu Red Ribera del Queiles

($10; 50% merlot, 25% syrah, 20% tempranillo and 5% graciano) Bright purple. Straightforward grapey aromas suggest blackberry and blueberry. Simple but fresh and juicy, with vivid dark berry flavors verging on jammy. I'd serve this with a light chill.

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2005 Bodegas Guelbenzu Vierlas Ribera del Queiles

($12) Dark violet. Dark cherry and plum aromas are deeply accented by licorice and tobacco. Sweeter on the palate, with cherry and blackcurrant flavors complemented by lower tones of smoked meat and espresso. Solid tannins on the close. Decidedly old-fashioned in its meaty, dry style, and in need of a fatty piece of red meat.

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2001 Bodegas Guelbenzu Lautus Ribera del Queiles

($56) Deep red. Smoky cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by roasted coffee, licorice and dried flowers. Ripe cherry and plum flavors possess very good depth and a supple texture, with an underpinning of smoked meat and minerals. Not particularly tannic but nicely framed by gentle acidity. This is drinking very well now. (Classical Wines From Spain, Seattle, WA)

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