2004 Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega Vina Ulises Crianza Alicante

($22) Medium red. Redcurrant and cherry aromas are underscored by smoked meat, licorice, leather and musky herbs. Impressively complex in the mouth, displaying vibrant red fruit flavors and deeper chocolate and roasted coffee qualities. Turns brighter on the finish, which shows good focus and snap. This is drinking nicely right now. Serve it with a smoky, grilled steak.

89

2004 Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega Monastrell Casta Diva Principe de Salinas Alicante

($27) Inky ruby. Deep kirsch and mulberry aromas are complicated by sexy gingerbread, lavender and minerals; floral notes build with air, developing an impressively complex potpourri character. Chunky cherry and cassis flavors display excellent depth and sweetness, absorbing the supple tannins that build on the finish. By all means give this some aeration if you're compelled to crack one any time soon.

90.

2004 Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva La Diva Vino Dulce de Moscatel Alicante (500 ml)

($30; for 500 ml.) Bronze-orange. Spicy tangerine and apricot on the nose, with a complex floral accent. Lush and sweet but firm too, with vibrant orange and pit fruit flavors, gentle acidity and a long, sappy finish. There's excellent lift for the weight here. Drink this sooner rather than later for its expansive, pure fruit.

91

2004 Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva Recondita Armonia Alicante (500 ml)

($30; for 500 ml.) Inky purple. Earthy cassis and plum aromas are given an exotic twist by cured tobacco, mocha and musky underbrush. Picks up a dark molasses quality with air, which adds depth to the ripe dark berry flavors. Slow-building tannins add structure to this broad, beefy dessert wine. I'd serve it alongside pungent blue cheeses or aged cheddars. (Classical Wines From Spain, Seattle, WA)

90
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