2006 Adegas Ladairo Blanco Monterrei

($18; 100% godello) Pale yellow. Intensely aromatic nose shows vibrant citrus fruit and white flowers accented by a dusty mineral quality. Precise citrus zest flavors possess good concentration and thrust, carrying into a talc-y, mineral-dominated finish. I like the combination of depth and lift here.

88

2006 Adegas Ladairo Tinto Monterrei

($18; 100% mencia) Bright red. Red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by baking spices and musky underbrush. Youthfully taut red fruit flavors slowly unfold to show a sweet kirsch quality that builds through the finish. Zesty mineral notes add energy to clinging cherry and redcurrant flavors.

89

2005 Adegas Ladairo Barrica Monterrei

($23; 100% mencia) Vivid ruby. Strongly perfumed bouquet of red berries, candied plum, fresh rose and cracked pepper. Silky in texture and seductively sweet, showing impressive depth and clear-cut raspberry and cherry flavors. The bright red fruit finishing flavors display excellent clarity and persistence. (Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, CA)

90
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