2006 Bodegas La Val Albarino Orballo Rias Baixas

($20) Light gold. Spicy, talc-y lemon-lime and quince aromas offer exhilarating freshness and cut. Tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors are energetic and impressively precise, with an exotic white pepper quality adding urgency. Finishes on a salty, mineral-kissed citrus note, with excellent length. I could kill a bottle of this in no time. (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

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