2004 Bodegas Los Astrales Ribera del Duero

($55) Opaque purple. Suave, oak spice-accented blackberry and candied plum aromas, complicated by sexy violet and rose florality. Sweet and velvety but focused, with lively blueberry and creme de mure on the palate and hints of candied licorice and black tea on the back. Firms up on the finish but there's a boatload of sweet, potent dark fruit here, suggesting that this will repay another five-plus years of aging. (Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA)

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