Also recommended: 2004 Fluminis Montsant (86). (Folio Wine Company, Napa, CA)

2003 Mas de l'Abundancia Montsant

($45) Deep red. Smoky cherry and plum aromas are deepened by musky underbrush and roasted meat. Full-bodied and slightly warm, showing ripe dark fruit flavors and a hint of leather on the back. The dark cherry note recurs on the finish, which is a tad dry. This demands serious red meat.

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