Also recommended: 2005 Nerola Catalunya (85). (Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY)
($10) Pale straw. Spicy pear and quince aromas are brightened by lime zest and talc-y minerals. Brisk citrus flavors are firm and direct, picking up a riper peach note with air. A refreshing easy-drinking lightweight that should be a real crowd-pleaser.
($15; 85% moscato and 15% gewurztraminer) Greenish straw. Highly perfumed nose shows bright grapefruit, peach and rose, all lifted by a dusty mineral overtone. Brisk citrus and pit fruit flavors offer a vibrant, mineraly personality and carry into a sweet/tart finish. Lots going on here.
($12) Deep pink. Fresh redcurrant and strawberry aromas are complicated by orange zest, minerals and dried rose. Fleshy and a touch warm, showing deep red berry flavors, a chewy texture and a jammy quality to the finish. This demands food.
($9) Dark red. Ripe cherry and plum aromas display a lightly roasted personality. Rich dark fruit flavors could use a bit more energy and betray a slight warmth. Gains freshness with air, though, pinking up a light raspberry quality. Finishes supple and sweet, with a repeating cherry note and good length.
($15) Medium red. Smoky redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with light herb, mineral and floral notes adding complexity. Brisk and light in body, but the sweet red berry flavors are poised and incisive; offers a silky texture along with very good energy. Brighter than most under-$50 merlots, not to mention sweeter and purer. This is really pretty, especially for the price. Restaurants that feel compelled to offer a merlot by the glass should check this out.
($28) Inky ruby. Black raspberry, cherry and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by mineral and floral qualities. Spicy dark berry flavors display admirable purity and depth, picking up subtle vanilla and licorice with air. Finishes fleshy and sweet, with very good persistence and slow-building tannins.
($20) Bright purple. Fresh cherry and blueberry on the nose, with complicating licorice, smoked meat and vanilla qualities. Smooth in texture and deep in sweet dark berry flavors. Finishes on a lush, creamy blackberry note, with excellent length and no apparent tannins.
($55) Deep red. Smoky cherry and redcurrant aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, musky underbrush and licorice. Deep, weighty and broad, with potent bitter cherry and licorice flavors given energy by mineral and dried flower notes. Youthful tannins give this a firm finish, but there's ample supporting fruit. Still, I'd leave this one in storage for at least another five years.