2006 Bodegas Montebaco Verdejo Rueda

($18) Pale yellow. High-pitched citrus and pear aromas are impressively vivid and expansive. Crisp lemon-lime and orchard fruit flavors display an intriguing blend of depth and energy, picking up a zesty white pepper quality with air. Finishes clean and brisk, with very good length.


2004 Bodegas Montebaco Semele Crianza Ribera del Duero

($18) Bright purple. Open-knit cherry and blackberry aromas are given depth by tobacco and espresso notes. Fleshy, vaguely sweet dark fruit flavors are complemented by a refreshingly bitter licorice quality and gently supported by supple tannins. Leaves a trace of bitter chocolate on the finish, which displays good clarity and persistence.


2004 Bodegas Montebaco Crianza Ribera del Duero

($22) Saturated violet. Explosively perfumed nose shows a range of red and dark berry aromas overlaid by fresh rose, vanilla and incense. Concentrated, chewy dark berry flavors show a youthful bitterness that carries through the finish. Gains sweetness with air, as well as a suave floral pastille flavor that lingers impressively. This is mighty suave.


2004 Bodegas Montebaco VS Vendimia Seleccionada Ribera del Duero

($45) Bright ruby. Sexy raspberry, kirsch, tobacco and anise aromas are strikingly expansive and pure. This gets all over the palate, showing deep, sweet red berry flavors and a rich, chewy texture. As packed with flavor as it is, there's surprising elegance and precision to the wine's long, spicy finish. This is already delicious, but I would not hesitate to stash a few bottles away for another four or five years. (Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, CA)

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