Also recommended: 2006 Rioja (86). (P.R. Grisley Co., Salt Lake City, UT)

2004 Bodegas Ondalan Rioja

($15) Dark red. Smoky cherry and blackberry aromas, with hints of baking spices and cigar box. Light in body, with clean, brisk flavors of spicy red berries and cherry supported by gentle tannins. Finishes bright, sweet and persistent.


2004 Bodegas Ondalan Rioja Crianza

($15) Dark red. Exotically spiced cherry and raspberry aromas, accented by seductive incense, cedar, cinnamon and dried flowers. Precise red berry and cherry flavors possess wonderful purity, with light body and crisp minerality contributing to the impression of lift. Bright, spicy red fruits dominate the long, vibrant finish. This has impressive elegance and a seamless, silky texture.


2004 Bodegas Ondalan 100 Abades Graciano Rioja

($30) Bright red. Seductive red berry and cherry aromas show impressive purity and a fresh floral tone. Silky and sweet, with energetic redcurrant and strawberry flavors, racy minerality and seemingly invisible tannins. Almost pinot-like in weight and finesse, finishing on vibrant mineral and floral notes. I find this awfully alluring.


2001 Bodegas Ondalan Rioja Crianza

($15) Medium red. Cedar-tinged cherry and floral aromas, along with a subtle meaty note. Light in body and gently sweet, with redcurrant, cherry and spicecake flavors framed by soft tannins. An old-school, elegant example of Rioja that would be great with braised meats.


2001 Bodegas Ondalan Rioja Reserva

($25) Inky purple. Dark cherry, cigar box and vanilla on the nose, along with subtle hints of cracked pepper and dried flowers. Supple and sweet, with gentle tannins framing ripe cassis, cherry and plum flavors. As rich as this is, it's not heavy, and a light touch of acidity adds lift to the finish. Impressively sweet, focused and long on the close, with the cherry note repeating.

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