2004 Pasanau Germans El Vell Coster Priorat

($70) Inky ruby. Mineral-accented blackcurrant and blueberry aromas are complemented by cured tobacco, violet and smoked meat. Really expands across the palate, showing a nervy tone and bright dark berry and floral pastille flavors. With aeration, this gains a sweet oak spice note that harmonizes nicely with the sexy dark fruit qualities. Light tannins add structure. Quite elegant, and balanced to repay at least a few years in the cellar.

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2003 Pasanau Germans La Morera de Montsant Priorat

($34) Ruby-red. Deep cherry and blueberry aromas display notable purity and an expansive personality. Silky in texture, with sweet red and dark berry flavors complicated by gentle spice, smoked meat and mineral accents. Finishes on a peppery dark berry note, with smooth tannins and excellent persistence. . (Classical Wines From Spain, Seattle, WA)

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