2005 Bodegas Pazo Pondal Albarino Rias Baixas

($23) Pale, bright gold, with a touch of spritz. Intensely spicy and mineral-inflected citrus and pear aromas accented by white pepper. Fresh, tangy and concentrated, the deep lemon and pear flavors sharply etched and lifted by juicy acidity. The long, impressively fresh finish emphasizes lemon and lime zest, with lingering mineral notes.

90

2003 Bodegas Pazo Pondal Lenda Pondal Monterrei

($16; a blend of 60% mencia, 30% tempranillo and 10% bastardo) Ruby-red. Spicy aromas of cured meat, blackberry and cherry, with subtle tobacco and cracked pepper accents. Medium-bodied and tangy, the bright berry fruit flavors energized by fresh acidity and firmed by fine-grained tannins. This has a pretty, tangy fruit profile and very good lift on the finish. (Bon Vivant Imports, Boise, ID)

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