2001 Primitivo Quiles Raspay Tinto Brut Alicante

($22; 100% monastrell) Light red. Open-knit, smoky red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by vanilla, tobacco and minerals. Sweet strawberry and kirsch flavors display an intriguing delicacy and focus, with a seductively creamy texture. The lush, sweet finish features impressive energy and length. This is drinking very well now.

90

NV Primitivo Quiles Fondillon Solera 1948 Gran Reserva Alicante

($69; 100% monastrell) Amber color. Explosively aromatic nose shows an intriguing bouquet of cherry, strawberry preserves, maple, floral honey and smoked meat. Very dry in style, with powerful red berry flavors, a sappy texture, and vaguely oxidized, nutty qualities. Just when you think it's a sherry style, the exuberant red fruit snaps back hard. The impressively persistent finish strongly emphasizes strawberry and raspberry. Intriguing, utterly singular wine; it ought to be fun to pair this with food. I say blue cheese. (Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, CA)

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