Also recommended: 2001 Vina Santurnia Reserva Rioja (85). (Antalvina Imports, Los Angeles, CA)

2004 Ramon Ayala Lete e Hijos Deobriga Seleccion Familiar Rioja

($15) Ruby-red. Vanilla-accented raspberry and cherry on the nose, with whiffs of vanilla and mint. Warm red fruit flavors are distinctly ripe and fleshy but are nicely invigorated by bright mineral and floral qualities. Finishes juicy and long, with an intriguing rose oil quality. This claims 14% alcohol on the label but seems even higher. (This producer's Santurnia Reserva is interesting but showed inordinately strong earth and game components.)

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