2004 Santiago Ijalba Valderibas Tempranillo Crianza Rioja

($18) Bright ruby. Dark cherry and plum aromas are complicated by a wild array of raw meat, underbrush, new leather and pungent herb accents. Deep and sweet, showing kirsch and candied plum flavors, gentle texture and a slight medicinal bitterness. Tannins build on the smoky, gamey finish but betray no hardness. Pretty complex, and not for those afraid of a bit of animal in their wine. Needs to be served with a full-flavored red meat dish. (Beacon Wine Company, San Francisco, CA)

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