Also recommended: 2004 Penazuela Garnacha Seleccion Campo de Borja (86). (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

2006 Crianzas y Vinedos Santo Cristo Grenache Quo Old Vines Campo de Borja

($16) Ruby-red. Smoky cherry and blackberry on the nose, with a peppery herb quality adding complexity. The firm, spicy cherry flavor betrays a slight bitterness that carries through the finish. While a bit stern, this will appeal to those who find most modern-day entry-level Spanish reds to be too simple or tutti-frutti.

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