Also recommended: 2005 Guitian Sobre Lias Valdeorras (86). (Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, CA)

2005 Bodegas La Tapada Godello Guitian Valdeorras

($28) Light yellow. Bright mineral- and floral-accented pear and apple aromas display very good clarity. Surprisingly fleshy, with musky yellow plum and poached pear flavors spreading out and carrying through the finish. Decidedly rich white wine and a great choice for heartier fish or fowl dishes.


2006 Bodegas La Tapada Godello Guitian Valdeorras

($30) Bright straw. Energetic aromas of lemon zest, green apple and salty minerals display impressive energy. Zesty, focused and pure, with vivid lemon and grapefruit flavors undercut by talc-y minerals. Finishes bright and fresh, with excellent persistence and lingering minerality.


2006 Bodegas La Tapada Guitian Sobre Lias Valdeorras

($35) Light gold. Pungent bouquet of powerful pear, peach, beeswax and white flowers. Precise, spicy yellow fruit flavors are supported by gentle acidity and carry through the long, chewy, clinging finish. Gains a spicy quality with air; I'd serve this with a rich shellfish dish.


2004 Bodegas La Tapada Guitan Barrica Valdeorras

($44) Pale straw. Explosively aromatic nose displays an array of smoky melon, peach, pear, lees and vanilla qualities; reminded me of a top-notch Graves. Deep and creamy, with powerful pit fruit and honeydew flavors supported by gentle acidity. Really spreads out on the long, almost sweet finish. This got the full barrel treatment but the wood is in lovely harmony with the fruit.

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