2004 Terres de Vidalba TOCS Priorat

($58; roughly one-third each of garnacha, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, with 5% merlot) Vibrant cherry and blackberry aromas are underscored by bright mineral and exotic floral qualities; this received serious oak treatment but I don't find the wood intrusive. Sweet red fruit flavors are subtly complemented by floral pastille and Indian spices. The long, gently tannic finish features spicy, building flavors of redcurrant and cherry. A sample of the proposed 2005 version was almost as good, perhaps a tad more energetic but less deep. (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

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