Also recommended: 2004 Puertas Novas Crianza Vendimia Seleccionada (85). (Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY)

2004 Bodegas Valpiculata Valpiculata Tinta de Toro

($45) Ruby-red. Smoky, vanilla-accented red and dark berry aromas display a seductively sweet, spicy character. Medium-bodied and crisp, with tangy raspberry and blackberry flavors showing good thrust. Lively and sweet at once, with good persistence and energy on the back, leaving a zesty impression of berry skin.

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