Also recommended: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Penedes (86). (Bon Vivant Imports, Boise, ID)

2003 Bodega Vega de Ribes Malvasia de Sitges Penedes

($30) Yellow-gold. Rich smoke- and butter-accented orange and ripe apple aromas are deep and powerful. Full, fleshy and round, the ripe apple and pear flavors deep and almost sweet. Finishes with a hint of warmth and deep, subtly toffeed apple and pear flavors. Intriguing, singular wine that needs a rich crustacean dish, with lots of butter.

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