2006 Zapadorado Verdejo Rueda

($12) Pale gold. Alarmingly aromatic nose offers an array of pungent citrus, herb, mineral and animal qualities; smells like some back-to-nature dude worked out and then rubbed himself with a lemon and a handful of thyme. Zesty lemon-lime and grapefruit flavors are brightened by green cardamom, white pepper and mineral salts. Impressive for its intensity and hypnotically repellent character. Bizarre stuff and even more bizarrely tasty. The question here is not what you serve it with but who you serve it to. (Vinamericas Selections, Miami Beach, FL; Beacon Wine Company, San Francisco, CA)

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