According to Gerard Boudot, the 2010s are similar to the 2008s in their "good fruit, natural alcoholic degrees and minerality." Yields were very low on the hillsides (just under 30 hectoliters per hectare, on average, for the premier crus), but close to normal on the tops of the hills (about 45 h/h for the grand crus) due to the later flowering under better weather conditions. The grapes were small due to widespread millerandage, and the levels of dry extract are solid, added Boudot, who did not expect to bottle his crus until next March. Boudot has cut way back on lees stirring in recent years; for the 2010s, he did just three batonnages prior to the malolactic fermentations and then stopped. The 2009s here are also quite strong in the context of the vintage. "Early harvesting was the secret to success in '09," said Boudot, "and it was necessary to limit the size of the crop. After that, the wines were very easy to vinify."
(from old vines under Batard-Montrachet on the Chassagne-Montrachet side): Pale bright color. Smoke, minerals and hazelnut on the inviting nose. Smooth and creamy in the mouth, offering good texture and concentration. Finishes with good length and lemony cut. (I tasted the Puligny villages in multiple components, some still with a bit of malic acidity, and this wine appears to be more minerally and citric than the Chassagne; it's likely to require a year or two of bottle aging.)
(from a "normal" yield): Pale, bright yellow. Lemony, steely nose. Juicy and citric in the mouth, showing a leaner texture than the Chassagne villages. Finishes persistent and quite dry. A bit reduced today and hard to assess.
(tasted at the end of its malolactic fermentation): Nose dominated by hazelnutty lees. Full and sweet in the mouth (it finished with about two grams per liter of r.s.); at once plump and serious. Finishes with excellent length, as well as a touch of edgy malic acidity. Boudot bought these vines from a "protected, sunny site" three years ago.
(at the end of its malo; cropped at a "normal" 47 hectoliters per hectare): Bright pale yellow. Nose dominated by crystallized lemon peel and rocky minerality. Broad, chewy and dry, showing a saline quality and a hint of banana. Rich in texture but not a fruity style.
(28 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boudot): Pale, bright yellow. Captivating, complex aromas of citrus fruit, pineapple, minerals, flowers and hazelnut. Smooth and concentrated, with lovely lemony cut giving it a very harmonious sugar/acid balance. Sappy, dry and serious, with a mineral-driven aftertaste. Excellent intensity and potential here.
Pale yellow. Citrus peel, clove and a hint of nutty oak on the nose. Fruitier but less deep than the Referts, with a fresh white peach flavor and strong underlying rocky minerality. This, too, finished with about two grams of residual sugar. Smaller-scaled than the Referts, which is from deeper soil and older vines, but with equal finesse.
Bright, pale yellow. Lemon oil dominates the nose. Dense but light on its feet, with strong citrus flavors lifted by a floral element. At once concentrated and elegant. This dense, very pure premier cru finishes with lovely lingering perfume. Very Folatieres. Made from two parcels high on the hillside on the opposite sides of the cru.
Bright pale yellow. Fresh peach, clove and sexy hazelnut on the nose. Complex, rich and pure in the mouth; quite generous in texture but kept firm by a spine of ripe lemony acidity. A powerful, penetrating, very long wine that combines the stuffing provided by clay soil and the elegance of calcaire.
(just 2 barrels made, vs. a normal 3-1/2; from vines planted in 1936 and 1937, the oldest of the domain; almost finished with its malo): Candied lemon peel on the nose. Juicy and brisk, with grapefruit and pineapple flavors framed by lemony acidity. Just a trace of green apple on the finish. Hard to taste today owing to the gas, but comes off as a bit less rich than the Combettes.
Bright pale yellow. Musky aromas of stone fruits and nut oils. Rich and powerful but not at all topheavy owing to firm acidity. More minerally than the Bienvenue but comes across as almost aggressively dry today. This will require several years of cellaring.
Enticing, high-pitched nose offers lemon, iodine, menthol and lavender. Intensely flavored, minerally and penetrating, conveying an exhilarating weightlessness. This finished with 2.5 grams of r.s. but has the strong mineral-driven acidity to handle the sugar. The inner-mouth floral character persists on the very long finish. A beauty in the making.
Very pale straw-green color. Flowers, nut oil and a note of quinine on the nose. Fat, ripe, rich and quite dry, with an attractive floral quality in the mid-palate. The slightly warm finish could use more lift.
($63) Pale straw-yellow. Lemon, nut oil, menthol and minerals on the nose. Suave and penetrating, with good energy to its peachy flavor. Less large but more fruity than the Chassagne. Also finer and longer, and classically dry on the aftertaste.
($92) Pale yellow-straw. Aromas of lemon, spices, menthol, flowers and stone. Dry and penetrating in the mouth, with citrus fruit flavors and a strong suggestion of liquid minerality. Not especially rich, but showing more stony cut than it did from barrel a year ago. Wait two or three years and then serve this with a grilled or poached sole, Boudot suggests.
($92) Pale greenish-straw color. Complex but reticent nose hints at lemon oil and flowers. Dense and fruity, offering a sweeter impression than the foregoing samples. A somewhat larger-scaled wine from a hotter spot, and in a more typical style (Boudot calls it a "summer" style) for the year.
($94) Pale straw. Cool nose dominated by steely minerality. In a juicy but distinctly tight style, less open to inspection today than the Hameau de Blagny. Taut citrus fruit and mineral flavors display excellent intensity. This may drink earlier than the 2008 version but should age well, notes Boudot, who compares his 2009s to his 1989s.
($108) (Boudot's parcel is next to Meursault Charmes du Milieu): Pale, bright greenish yellow. Perfumed, expressive aromas of lime, white peach and menthol. Sweet, fat and deep; this is really stuffed with fruit. Plenty of alcohol here but with the material to support it. In a distinctly rich style.
($108) Pale, bright yellow. Subtle aromas of lemon cream and hazelnut. Tighter on the palate than the Referts, with good cut to the steely peach and crushed rock flavors. Less showy and sweet today but more classic Puligny. Finishes with noteworthy finesse.
($118) Peach, lemon, flowers and hazelnut on the nose, complicated by spicy, smoky oak. Rich but with a light touch, thanks to harmonious lemony acidity and solid mineral character for the year. A very taut, youthfully edgy 2009 from white soil. This premier cru calls for three or four years of patience.
($118) Palish yellow. Musky peach and clove oil on the nose. Creamy, rich and stuffed with stone fruit and spice flavors. In a very ripe, Meursault-like style but with enough lemony acidity to maintain its shape. Big, mouthfilling wine with slightly elevated alcohol.
($155) Yellow-straw color. Deep aromas of peach and hazelnut oil. Big, broad, rich and deep, showing near-grand cru weight and concentration to its peachy fruit. The chewy finish features good lemony cut and really stains the palate with flavor. Boudot noted that he has not acidified any of his wines since 2006.
($365) Pale yellow-straw. Reticent, high-pitched aromas of lemon, lime, crushed stone and lavender; good minerality here. Juicy and taut, with strong lemony cut and stony minerality for the year. This very tight, long grand cru will need several years to unfold. Assistant Bernard Riffault told me last year that this wine would shut down in its final months prior to bottling, and he was right.
($339) (13.3% alcohol, from grapes picked on the second day of the harvest): Good medium yellow. Musky peach and hazelnut on the nose. Juicy and energetic, with excellent cut to the peach and spice flavors. Boasts real nerve for Batard, especially from this vintage. The long finish displays subtle perfume. This very pure, fresh wine will need at least four or five years in bottle to reveal its inherent complexity. Very impressive.
($395) Green-tinged pale yellow. Enticing aromas of white peach, green apple, white flowers and crushed stone, with a suggestion of exotic fruits. Chewy and sweet, with an almost painful intensity to its sappy fruit and mineral flavors. With a distinctly oily, exotic quality, this wine is showy already--and the most open of this set of the Sauzet grand crus. Very long and rich on the back end.
($605) Pale, bright yellow. Very high-pitched aromas of lavender and iodine. Extremely rich and powerful but with a shockingly light touch and outstanding precision to its flavors of citrus fruits, mirabelle, minerals and spices. Just a hint of surmaturite here, but with the lemony acidity and supporting structure for a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with outstanding length and lift.