Boillot started harvesting in 2010 on September 15, as he was happy with the combination of high-quality fruit and sound but reasonable potential alcohol levels. "The finished wines will be between 12.6% and 13.2% without chaptalization," he said, "just like I like it." Boillot compares the 2010s to the 2008s in their "mineral tension," which he says gives them vibrancy and extends their finishes. Boillot does a severe debourbage at cool temperature for 24 hours, then filters the bourbes and adds them back to the wine. He stirred the lees of the 2010s every ten days until the malolactic fermentations, which had finished at least two months prior to my visit at the end of May. Incidentally, Boillot told me that 2010 was his 40th vintage, and that it may be his best year yet for red wines. More on that subject next winter.

2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Meursault

Stone fruits, apple and flowers on the nose.  Sweet and peachy in the mouth, with good purity and precision if modest nuance.  Should offer early pleasure.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Chassagne-Montrachet Macharelles

Bright aromas and flavors of apple, pear, flowers and menthol.  Shows more nervosite than the Meursault thanks to lovely harmonious acidity.  The floral element carries through in the mouth and on the firm aftertaste.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet

Steely, taut aromas and flavors of peach, lemon and minerals.  Dry, brisk and classic; distinctly steely and dry.  A very serious village wine in the making.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne

Restrained but pure aromas of peach, nut oil and clove.  Offers an attractive hint of sweetness but with excellent mineral support to its peach and spice flavors complicated by hazelnut.  This is nicely ripe in spite of the altitude of the vines.  A delicate, crystalline wine showing lovely finesse and backbone.  The crop level here was just 25 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boillot.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Sous le Puits

Pale lemon-yellow color.  Crystallized lemon peel, fresh herbs and spices on the nose.  Classic taut, rather austere Puligny, with excellent density and energy to its white peach and spice flavors.  In a distinctly strict style and long and spicy on the aftertaste.  My sample really benefited from breathing. These vines are 25 years old.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux

Citrus fruit and spicy oak on the nose; a bit less pristine than the Garenne and Sous le Puits.  Then sweeter and richer in the mouth but with taut minerality giving it a slightly disjointed quality.  This seems midway between the Garenne and the Sous le Puits in style and a bit austere on the back end.

2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts

Delicate, very pure nose hints at white peach, menthol and flowers.  A step up in depth over the preceding samples, with impressive intensity of flavor for such a subtle wine.  Displays the floral character of the coolish summer in spades, not to mention a light touch with the oak.  This will need time in bottle. 

2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet

Component #1:  Aromatic nose combines orange blossom and hazelnut.  Fat, rich and fruity but without the tension of the Referts.  A generous if somewhat facile style.  Component #2, from a plot that yielded just 18 hectoliters per hectare in 2010:  Much more minerally on the nose, with enticing hints of linden flower and apple.  An ethereal style but with real sap.  The suave finish offers excellent tension.  Lots of millerandage here.  The two components will be blended.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes

Subtle perfume of stone fruits, flowers and hazelnut.  Very rich for the vintage but without any exotic character to its peach and mineral flavors.  Impressively powerful and gripping on the finish, which shows an almost tannic phenolic character.  Very backward wine. 


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere

Bright yellow.  Classic steely aromas of fresh peach, nut oil and stone.  Densely packed and sweet, with pure, penetrating flavors of white peach and white flowers.  Quite backward today and a bit dominated by its acids.  This is evolving slowly.


2010 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Batard-Montrachet

Bright, light yellow.  Sweet, floral nose is much less expressive today than the Truffiere.  Dense, suave and quite light on its feet, with the floral character supported but not overwhelmed by oak spices.  Finishes long, pure and pristine.  Still a baby today.


2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet

($60) Bright pale yellow.  Ripe, expressive aromas of peach and nut oil.  Sweet, creamy and fresh, with flavors of peach and cappuccino; not as taut as the young 2010 but boasts plenty of stuffing.  "In the generous style, I prefer the 2006 to this wine," notes Boillot.


2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts

($90) Very pale yellow with green highlights.  Lime and nut oil on the nose.  Rich and attractive but a bit simple, with ripe peach and apricot flavors perked up by some lemon and lime.  Less floral than the 2010 version and essentially in a soft, creamy style.  Tasty already but I wanted more nuance and grip.  There's something oddly neutral about this wine.


2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet

($90) Pale yellow.  Subtle aromas of stone fruits and nut oil.  Rich and energetic if youthfully laid-back, conveying more complexity and incipient personality today than the Referts.  The long finish offers captivating sweetness.  This has turned out very well.


2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes

($105) Bright pale yellow.  White peach and white flowers on the nose, plus a hint of grapefruit.  At once creamy and vibrant, with concentrated, tactile peach and citrus flavors showing uncanny definition and complexity for the vintage.  Finishes with noteworthy power, balance and freshness.  This is close to the 2010 in quality and may be even smoother.


2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere

($115) Pale bright yellow.  Stone fruits, clove oil and hazelnut on the nose.  Then densely packed and intense but not yet complex in the mouth, with terrific intensity to its peach-dominated flavor.  Has a thickness that's leavened by strong finishing minerality.  Distinctly crunchy on the long finish.  This seems midway between 2009 and 2010 in style, with the best attributes of both vintages.

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(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)
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