As he did in 2006 and 2008, Thierry Matrot picked later than most of his neighbors did in 2010. The crop level was down considerably owing to the hard winter frost in December of 2009 (Matrot had to replant 4,600 vines) and bad weather during the flowering. Acid levels are sound (typically between 4.2 and 4.4 grams per liter) in the post-malo wines but Matrot considers his 2010s to be riper than his 2008s (he feels that hail stress give a slight vegetal aspect to the acidity in '08). There was also a higher skin-to-juice ratio to the grapes in 2010, and the wines finished drier than the 2008s. Matrot believes that the 2010s will turn out to be enveloping, fleshy wines, rounder and more sensual than the '08s.
Aromas and flavors of peach, apricot and nut oils. Chewy and strong but a bit unrefined. Good material and cut here.
Very ripe nose offers aromas of apricot, hazelnut, honey and marzipan. Fruit-driven and velvety, with good supporting minerality and acidity to the ripe apricot and spice flavors. Strong stone fruit flavors linger on the aftertaste. Already showing a lot of personality. Very Meursault.
Bright yellow. Very pure aromas of stone fruits, spices and flowers. Smooth, ripe and rather elegant on the attack, then quite rich in the middle, with impressive volume for the year, no doubt due in part to the later harvest. Plenty of extract here. Limey minerality gives a slightly bitter firmness to the finish. (The Meursault Charmes was in the middle of its malolactic fermentation, and was still being stirred weekly.)
Pale yellow. Peach and crushed stone on the nose, plus a whiff of honeyed surmaturite not unlike the Blagny. Rich, round and smooth but at the same time dry and classic, with strong minerality giving the middle a distinctly sappy quality. Finishes very clean and very long. Strong potential here. (The Puligny-Montrachet Combettes was also in the middle of its malo and in a distinctly disjointed phase.)
($32) Bright, light yellow. Rather exotic aromas of apricot and mirabelle lifted by a mineral element. Very ripe and round, with modest definition to its white plum and marzipan flavors. A bit unrefined but has solid material. "Serve it with fish on the terrace," suggests Matrot. Matrot has owned these old vines (45+ years) since 1999 and notes that the site has benefited in recent years from global warming.
(a premier cru made from Dents de Chien and Sur Gamay): Good pale, bright yellow. Ripe citrus, marzipan and buttery aromas perked up by a floral note. Round, smooth and quite ripe; a bit warm but not aggressive. Will give early pleasure.
Musky stone fruits dominate the nose. Round and very ripe, with a honeyed quality to its glyceral apricot, marzipan and soft citrus flavors. Sweeter than the Saint-Aubin but also fresher and much richer than it appeared to be from barrel last year. "For rich summer cuisine," says Matrot. I'd give this a year or two in the cellar.
($71) Aromas of menthol, minerals and earth. Very ripe but also vibrant, displaying more energy than the village wine. Fruitier in the mouth than on the nose. A rather powerful, rich wine with strong soil tones and a smooth texture. The long finish is a bit severe in a positive way. Matrot noted that he did a lot of lees stirring for his Meursault cuvees in 2009 as the wines initially lacked drive; after the racking, he said, they gained freshness and purity.
($80) Good full yellow. Nose dominated by menthol and wet stone. Fleshy and ripe but quite dry, with a strong saline minerality giving the wine a chewy character for the year. Not a particularly fruity style but refined, subtle and long, with a whiplash of minerality on the aftertaste. For veal with a cream sauce or light white meats, suggests Matrot. An excellent showing.
($80) Reticent nose hints at lemon, menthol and crushed stone, plus a whiff of smoke. Much less opulent than the Meursault premier crus, showing strong minerality and a hint of white flowers. Finishes quite brisk, with a lime flavor and a peppery quality. Far less exotic than it appeared to be from barrel last spring. This will need patience.
($85) Very reticent nose suggests ripe stone fruits, lemon peel, minerals, crushed stone and white truffle. Sweet and thick on entry, with ripe white peach and mirabelle flavors dominating. The wine's mineral element kicks in on the back, giving it a light touch and good inner-mouth perfume. Finishes broad, aromatic and dry, with a whiplash of flavor and a slight youthful aggressiveness. Needs six or seven years in the cellar.
($75) (a 50/50 blend of the premier crus Garenne and Chalumeaux; aged in 50% new oak): Peach and minerals on the nose, with a very light grilled oak quality. The wood makes its presence felt on the rather powerful, aggressive palate, but strong minerality gives the wine a penetrating, sappy quality. With less fat than the Perrieres (the wine has just 12.8% alcohol), this is even more rigorous today and in need of patience. Really reverberates on the back end. Intriguing wine.