Marc Bachelet describes 2010 as a typical Burgundy vintage from a small crop, without exaggerated acids or sugars. "We picked with very little rot," he told me, "and the premier crus were much riper than the village wines. It's a vintage with very good balance. In fact, 2010 has better ripeness than 2008. In '08, the ripeness came in the last ten days of the season." According to brother Alexandre, 2010 was the first year in which the Bachelets did no lees stirring. They do a strict debourbage but then work as reductively as possible. And they are slowly but surely reducing the percentage of new oak during elevage: it's now about one-third for the grand crus and 25% to 30% for the premier crus.
(finished its malo but not yet sulfited): Yellow fruits, honey and a hint of menthol on the nose Densely packed but a bit brutal today, with an edge of acidity to the very ripe nectarine and apricot flavors. Needs a racking.
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Pear, honey, flowers and mint on the nose. Sweet on entry, then juicy and lively in the middle, with nicely integrated acidity giving the wine a sappy quality. Finishes with good length and a slight youthful aggressiveness. The Bachelet brothers plan to rack their wines into tank before the harvest and to age them there until next April.
Musky fruit salad and lemon candy on the nose. Intense pear and peach flavors are given clarity by brisk acidity. Really strong fruit here, with little sign of new oak. Finishes with excellent length.
Peach, marmalade and spices on the nose. Deeper and more complex than the village Chassagne, with greater dimension to its stone fruit and spice flavors. Finishes broad, brisk and strong, with an exotic suggestion of yellow fruits. A separately vinified component of older vines, which will be blended in prior to bottling, showed stronger minerality and acidity along with a ripe honey quality.
Bright yellow. Very ripe aromas of orange, apricot, white peach and clove; a bit exotic in the context of the year. Then thick and oily, conveying a strong impression of solidity leavened by lively acidity. Flavors of pineapple and clove are lifted by a mineral freshness. This wine's bones are nicely covered in the way of a baby Batard.
Sweet ripe peach, flowers and spices on the nose. Suave and silky in the mouth, but with a bright floral element and strong acidity giving the wine a much lighter touch than the Referts. The tactile, very long finish offers excellent grip and lift. From vines high on the hillside, on the Meursault side of the appellation, cropped at just 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2010.
Reticent but complex aromas of citrus fruit, peach flesh, coconut, nut oil and oak char. Tighter and less easy to approach today than the Folatieres, in need of much more elevage. Not at all a massive style of Batard, from vines located near the wall of Montrachet. This very smooth wine spreads out and builds impressively on the vibrant aftertaste.
($63) (the 2009s were bottled in April of this year): Bright yellow. Ripe fresh apricot and a nutty nuance on the sexy nose. Supple, fine-grained and sweet, with good tension to the stone fruit flavors. Not at all exaggerated but a tad warm on the finish.
Bright pale yellow. Closed notes hints at peach, marmalade and flowers. Rich, fine-grained and fresh, with the floral element carrying through in the mouth. Very smooth village wine with building fruit on the lively aftertaste.
($95) Good bright pale yellow. Lemon, hazelnut and almond on the somewhat musky nose; showing some oak today. Then thick but fresh in the mouth, with strong stone fruit flavors showing lovely verve for the year. Plenty of fat here, but finishing notes of citrus fruit, flowers and spices give the wine lovely back-end lift. This really saturates the sides of the mouth.
($111) Bright, light yellow. Brisk aromas of nectarine and white flowers. Much more ethereal and closed than the Referts, with high-pitched stone fruit and mineral flavors dominating. The Referts is sweet and more open, while this finishes adamantly dry, with a strong stoniness. This may surpass the Referts six or seven years down the road.
Bright green-tinged yellow. Fresh apricot, white peach and hints of exotic fruits on the nose. Fat, rich and powerful, displaying a slight medicinal aspect and a muscular reserve today in spite of its considerable mid-palate sweetness. Very backward, youthfully aggressive Batard, with a bit of oaky dryness on the back end.