The high percentage of coulure in 2010 resulted in small, concentrated grapes with great vivacity but without surmaturite, said Raphael Coche-Dury. "When we picked, they were very ripe but just short of overripening." Acidity levels, both malic and tartaric, were very high, he noted, adding that the 2010s should be great agers. In contrast, the 2009 "are not for enormous aging, but they are very rich and have sound acidity."

2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault

(from Narvaux):  Vibrant aroma of orange oil.  Sweet, opulent and very ripe but with terrific verve to the soft citrus flavors.  Superb village Meursault with lovely minerality giving grip to the long, fresh finish.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots

Deep but bright aromas of crushed stone and cherry-almond.  Fat and opulent; stuffed with soft citrus, spice and stone flavors.  A wine of impressive volume, power and fullness but rather backward today.  Finishes with lovely balance and superb length.  Despite the wine's sheer size and ripeness, the terroir of Rougeots dominates the vintage.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalieres

Pale, greenish-yellow.  Brisk aromas of lemon, lime and crushed stone.  Rich, dense and very ripe but more minerally than the Rougeots; a note of marzipan shades to hazelnutty lees on the round, very long back end.  There was a lot of millerandage here, notes Raphael Coche-Dury.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Caillerets

Crushed rock and orange oil on the nose, plus a floral quality rare for 2009.  Wonderfully lush and sweet but with terrific acid balance giving definition to this broad wine  Finishes supple, fresh and long.  Will give early pleasure.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres

Superripe yet steely peach aroma suggests the tautness of Puligny.  Then sappy and intense in the mouth, with lovely tension and minerality to the sweet peach and hazelnut flavors.  Linear and classic village wine but not hard.  Finishes firm and very long.  This really transcends the vintage.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres

Very pale color.  Orange and lemon pith, wet stone and a whiff of marzipan on the slightly reduced nose.  Wonderfully creamy and fine-grained in the mouth, saturating the entire palate with orange, dusty stone and ginger flavors.  Superb citric cut keeps it fresh and extends the very long finish.  Outstanding wine, and true to its terroir.


2009 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

(from vines picked very early and very ripe, "at the limit of surmaturite," according to Raphael Coche-Dury; 13.5+% alcohol):  Crystallized citrus peel, green apple, ripe stone fruits and crushed rock on the nose.  Atypically large-scaled and powerful for this bottling, with sweet, mouthcoating fruit nicely balanced by ripe acidity.  Still, this is not nearly as tightly coiled as usual.  Would I guess Corton-Charlemagne? 

2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault

(Narvaux):  Bright, pale yellow.  Apple and spice aromas smell sweet.  Then solidly built and intensely flavored, with racy acidity giving verve to the lemony flavor.  Conveys a small-berry impression of concentration.  Will this shut down after the bottling?


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots

Pineapple and grapefruit on the fruit-driven nose.  At once ample and biting in the mouth, with terrific cut to its almost honeyed fruit flavors.  Finishes with superb length and lingering perfume.  Seems more pliant today than the village wine, but this will nonetheless need some time to harmonize in bottle.


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalieres

Peach and crushed rock on the nose.  The tight palate offers a captivating sweet/tart character, with pineapple and grapefruit flavors given grip and solidity by a crushed stone element.  Finishes with terrific energy and length.  The crop size was down an average of 30% in 2010, and even more in the crus, notes Raphael Coche-Dury.


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres

Crystallized yellow fruits, marzipan and white truffle on the nose; a bit less intense than the last couple of samples.  Steely and high in acidity, bit a bit disjointed, even loose-knit today.  Some tart acidity suggests that this wine needs further elevage to come into harmony.  Today I clearly prefer the 2009 version.


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Caillerets

Lemon, crushed stone and a suggestion of metallic minerality on the nose.  Quite tight, brisk and firm, with citrus flavors kept in check by strong acidity and some unabsorbed gas.  Finishes long and firm.  Coche did his normal lees stirring for the 2010s but had stopped about two months before my visit.


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres

Knockout nose combines orange, toasted bread, crushed stone, a whiff of sulfides and a suggestion of spicy oak.  Like a black (okay, white) hole on the palate, with almost painful intensity to its incredibly dense, imploded flavors of citrus fruits and saline, iodiney minerality.  At once austere and explosive on the mounting finish.  Can't spit this stuff:  it sticks to the palate like glue.  This great stony wine should surpass all but the best grand crus made in Burgundy in 2010.


2010 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

Green apple, nutmeg and crushed rock on the nose.  Fruitier than the Perrieres, with a strong sappy quality and great penetration to the mid-palate.  Near-electric acidity makes this almost painful today.  Classically built but not austere.  Finishes with uncanny chewy intensity and a vibrant lemony element.  Raphael pointed out that the grapes in 2010 looked riper and more golden than those of 2009.  But he believes that this wine, like the Perrieres, will evolve in bottle for two or three decades.

(Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
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