Jobard told me that 2010 is the greatest vintage of recent years for him, and my early tasting of these wines suggests that he's right. Crop levels were very low, and the 2010s are sappy, concentrated, serious wines for aging. He told me that while the 2008s may be more minerally, they have less gras than the 2010s. Jobard presses very slowly, extracting little in the way of gross lees, and he believes this explains the purity of his wines. Incidentally, his classically dry 2009s have likewise turned out very well. They're all in the 13.2% to 13.7% range in alcohol but have enough balancing acidity to ensure freshness and definition. "It's a rich year in which my long elevage brought more elegance to the wines," said Jobard. "I've bottled after 18 months since 1999, and I've never regretted it."
($63) Pale color. Pure, delicate yet very ripe aromas of soft citrus fruits and honey. Juicy and brisk; in fact a bit skinny and lacking the flesh of the year. Spicy oak current dominates fruit. A bit hard-edged today but this is still tight.
($77) Good pale straw-yellow color. Brighter, expressive aromas of citrus fruit, spices and hazelnut. Offers more richness and stuffing than the comparatively lean Sous La Valle, with the soft citrus flavors carrying through in the mouth. Finishes quite dry and firm.
($77) (just the second vintage for this bottling, from 50-year-old vines): Good bright pale yellow. Expressive nose combines lemon, grapefruit, hazelnut, minerals and wild herbs. At once sweet, dense and penetrating, with an enticing balance of acidity and minerality for the year. Rich and complete Meursault, with a very dry, vibrant finish leaving the palate coated with dusty stone. An excellent showing. Jobard notes that in 2008 he was among the last to pick in Meursault, while in 2009 he was one of the first.
($82) (this was the last chardonnay Jobard harvested in 2009): Pale color. Reticent aromas of lime, stone and lily. Densely packed, juicy and penetrating, with crushed stone and mineral flavors joined by a hint of pineapple. Quite dry and backward, displaying excellent acidity for the year. I'd hold this for a few years and drink the En Luraules and Narvaux first.
($103) Slightly reduced nose hints at flint, wet stone and honey. Rich but reticent, with citrus and crushed stone flavors dominating. Boasts good lemony lift but also finishes with a faint phenolic edge and some alcoholic warmth. Does this backward wine have enough supporting flavor for balance?
($103) Pale, green-tinged yellow. Captivating, high-pitched aromas of lime oil, crushed stone and flowers. Juicy, tight and penetrating, with lovely clarity and class to its flavors of lime, minerals and stone. At once wiry and dense; this distinctly low-fat, youthfully imploded version of Meursault finishes with lovely purity and floral lift. This really benefited from Jobard's decision to harvest early in 2009.
($103) Good pale yellow. Pure but reticent aromas of citrus oil, lemon ice and vanillin oak. Rich and sweet on entry, then powerful and a bit more aggressive in the middle, with noteworthy density and ripeness to the citrus peel and orange oil flavors. Finishes broad and long, with the slight youthful aggressiveness of the vintage.
Bright light-medium yellow. Crystallized lemon peel on the slightly oily nose. Glyceral and sweet in the mouth but with excellent acid cut giving shape to this thick wine. Apple and pear flavors linger impressively on the aftertaste. This is denser and drier than the Sous La Velle, which boasts alcohol close to 14% but had not yet finished its malo.
(almost half of this cuvee is aging in foudre): Bright yellow. Very ripe peach and a whiff of banana on the nose. Fat and glyceral for 2010, but with an impression of strong dry extract and an edge of malic acidity giving this very rich wine good shape on the back. Ripe yellow fruit notes dominate.
Bright yellow with a green tinge. Lemon peel and white flowers on the lively nose. Rich, chewy and sweet; finer-grained than the Narvaux, with its concentration and thickness nicely leavened by a hint of crushed stone minerality and strong, harmonious acidity. Finishes broad, powerful and palate-staining. The crop level was a modest 35 hectoliters per hectare and the wine shows it.
Bright yellow with a green tinge. Subdued nose hints at fruit salad, honey and spicy oak. Fat and sweet on entry, then tactile and rather powerful in the middle, with slightly aggressive flavors of fruit salad and honey. Here the malo has just finished so the young wine shows a slightly aggressive quality. But there's excellent material here.
Perfumed aromas of grapefruit, peach and nut oil; smells thick and bright. Then wonderfully sweet and fat in the mouth, with ripe acidity framing the superripe peachy fruit. Powerful but fine-grained wine with an almost tannic edge. Like a couple of these wines, this still shows a faint malic quality.
Bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of grapefruit, flowers and spices; smells less exotically ripe than the Genevrieres. Intensely flavored and precise, given cut by penetrating minerality and perfectly integrated acidity. I might have picked this blind as a Perrieres. The reverberating dusty finish is sappy and saline without being phenolic. Jobard got just 25 hectoliters per hectare from these vines in 2010, which goes a long way toward explaining the sheer concentration of this extremely promising wine.