The 2010 malos finished here between January and May, and Vincent Boyer had stopped stirring the lees in December, as he was afraid of getting heavy wines, "like in 2006 and 1999.") After showers in mid-August, the grapes concentrated rapidly, said Boyer. Alcohol levels were mostly elevated (reaching 14.5% in Meursault Genevrieres) and the yields in his premier cru vineyards were down by as much as 50%. "I like 2009 a lot," said Martenot. "We'll see about 2010."
(a new cuvee; this material was previously sold off): Bright yellow. Buttery yellow fruits on the nose. Sweet, lush and forward, with strong notes of nuts and butter. Finishes with good honeyed persistence. This nicely balanced village wine should give early pleasure.
Medium yellow. Oily yellow fruits, mirabelle, mint, honey and smoke on the nose. Spicy and dense, but with the wine's honeyed, chewy, almost glyceral texture leavened by surprisingly strong acidity. These old vines are always the first to be picked. Not a particularly fruity style.
High-pitched aromas of orange blossom and tangy marmalade; reminded me a bit of a botrytized riesling. Dense, bright and light on its feet, with an almost exotic apricot flavor lifted by juicy acidity. The stony, slightly tart finish features lingering perfume. I suspect this wine will show more minerality by the time it's bottled.
(just the second year for this bottling, which previously went to the negoces): Expressive aromas of peach, nut oil and lichee. Ripe, broad and sweet, with hints of pear and lichee. A bit fruitier than the basic Meursault and broader on the finish than the Chaumes des Perrieres. Solid acidity here.
Aromas of yellow peach, smoked meat and clove oil. Fat and sweet, with notes of peach and fresh herbs. Quite voluptuous for Puligny if not particularly deep, with just enough acidity to maintain its balance. In a distinctly sweet style, this village wine should offer early appeal.
Reticent, high-pitched aromas of lemon, lime and stone. Juicy and tight in the mouth, showing good cut and a touch of youthful bitterness. Finishes with pungent minerals and spices. There's nothing thick or exotic about this Meursault.
Pale medium yellow. Aromas of apple, banana, cinnamon, lichee and spearmint. Supple and minty on entry, then a bit hard-edged in the middle. There's good minerality here but today I don't find a lot of fruit flavor. Rather dry and angular wine, with a phenolic pear skin quality and a peppery element on the finish. Perhaps going through a disjointed phase.
Complex aromas of yellow peach syrup, clove oil and vanilla. Sweet and seamless on the palate; in a gentle style but with good energy to the silky flavors of peach, honey and grilled nuts. At once rich and juicy, finishing with a flavor of buttered nuts. Really lovely balance here. This is a moderate 13% alcohol, from a crop level reported by Boyer to be just 30 hectoliters per hectare.
(14.5% alcohol; just two barrels produced, from a yield of 25 hectoliters per hectare): Medium yellow. Exotic aromas of apricot, honey and caramel apple. Quite sweet and full on the palate, with a glyceral texture and noteworthy density to its peachy flavor. This superripe, rather California-like Meursault saturates the palate with flavor without coming off as obviously hot.
Bright light-medium yellow. Cool but thoroughly ripe aromas of lime blossom, pear, white pepper and crushed stone. Boasts lovely sweetness and a seamless texture but comes across as much more classic, and less thick, than the Genevrieres, with a chewy, dusty minerality leading to a powerful finish of liquid stone. This combines the best traits of Boyer's Charmes and Genevrieres.
Bright, pale yellow. Reticent, high-pitched aromas of mint, lime, lavender and violet. Supple and pliant but at the same time fresh and minerally, with enticing hints of mint, flowers and white pepper. The strong finish features a lingering lime quality complicated by mint and stone.
(all these 2009s were bottled in September of 2010): Light yellow. Ripe stone fruits, lichee, menthol and clove on the nose. Fat, honeyed, soft and sweet, displaying a round, seamless texture and good length but a slightly warm aspect.
Aromas of pear, lavender, lichee, menthol and smoke. At once smoother and brighter than the Ormeau, with lemon and lime notes keeping the mid-palate a bit tight. Finishes firm-edged and minerally, with good persistence. This will need some time in bottle. Aged in 25% new oak, vs. 33% for the premier crus.
Pale color. Sexy, complex nose melds lemon, lime, smoke, white pepper and hazelnut. Rich and sweet but at the same time juicy and serious, offering lively white peach and white pepper flavors framed by lovely minerality for the year. The dusty, tactile finish offers very good length and grip. An excellent showing, even better than it appeared to be last year from the barrel.
Vibrant aromas of lemon, lime and smoked meat. Smooth on entry, then intense and firm in the middle, with lively lime and mint flavors complicated by dusty stone and a saline nuance. Very pure wine with a light touch: today this seems more 2010 in style than the 2010! The long, rising finish features excellent grip. A lovely 2009.
Pale yellow. Reticent nose dominated by wet stone; less fruity and expressive than the Charmes or Genevrieres. Supple, clean, dry and quite backward, with youthfully aggressive flavors of yellow peach and wet stone. Almost tannic in its chalkiness today. The stony quality carries through on the youthfully ungiving, dry finish. This calls for a good five or six years in the cellar.
Pale yellow. Reticent aromas of lemon, lime and minerals. Less tough and stony than the Perrieres, but still quite firm for the vintage, offering complex flavors of lemon, lime and spices. The broad finish builds nicely, coating the palate with steely mineral flavors and a hint of black pepper. Much more Puligny than 2009 in style, and built to age.