Etienne de Montille told me the 2010s are "like the 2008s but with more punch and less botrytis character." The pHs are even lower than those of the 2010s and acidity levels are quite healthy, with a number of wines in the 4.8 to 5.2 grams-per-liter range, according to de Montille. De Montille is now working with "dirtier" juice as a way of preventing premature oxidation in the bottle. He's not adding sulfur at pressing, and he's bringing as much as ten liters of lees into the barrel for his top crus ("not just the greenish lees, but down to the yellow-green lees"). I tasted the 2010s that had finished their malos by the time of my visit.

2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Monthelie Les Duresses

(the first year for this wine; de Montille replaced the pinot noir here with chardonnay after the 2006 harvest):  Pale yellow-green.  Nose combines a viognier-like apricot note with riesling ginger; I don't think I could have picked this as chardonnay.  Soft and plump, with a hint of banana.  Easygoing wine with modest material and little in the way of grip.  A bit dry on the end.


2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Meursault

Bright yellow-green.  Tangy aromas of apricot, apple and honey.  A sweet, ripe fruit bomb with more concentration and grip than the Monthelie Les Duresses and considerable early appeal.  Finishes with very good but not outstanding length.

2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet

Pale yellow.  Reserved nose hints at ripe pear, peach, citrus fruits and white flowers.  Less sweet in the mouth than the village Meursault, with a ripe pear flavor complicated by dusty spices.  Nicely floral on the firm finish.

2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet

Pale yellow-green.  Fresh nectarine and gingery spices on the nose.  At once juicy and generous, with firm but harmonious acidity (5.2 grams per liter, according to de Montille) framing the ripe stone fruit flavors.  Lovely transparent Puligny-Montrachet with a chewy, saline, firm finish.  Long for village wine.

2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Saint-Aubin Remilly

Pale yellow-green.  White peach, quinine and crushed stone on the high-pitched nose.  Dense and sweet, with pineapple and nutmeg flavors complemented by a more tropical quality but at the same time supported by stony minerality.  Round in the middle but a tad dry on the back end.  This is less refined than the Puligny villages, at once less fruity and more exotic.

2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Meursault Les Poruzots

Pale green-yellow.  Very ripe peach and acacia flower on the nose.  A fat, sweet fruit bomb in the mouth; softer than the last couple samples but given grip by its intensity and saline chewiness.  Finishes round, broad and quite sweet for the year, even a bit youthfully aggressive.


2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Meursault Les Perrieres

Ripe peach, flint, quinine and grilled nuts on the slightly high-toned nose.  Creamy and seamless but backward, with ripe peach and stone flavors conveying a weightless quality.  Round but classically dry wine given lift and a light touch on the long finish by a penetrating, sappy saline element.


2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres

Pale yellow.  Subtle, pure nose offers yellow peach, acacia flower and wild herbs.  Chewy, fat and deep, with a saline quality to its intense stone fruit and spice flavors.  Already very generous in the mid-palate.  Finishes firm and classically dry, with palate-dusting minerals and herbs.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet

($49) Pale color.  Ripe but closed on the nose, hinting at menthol and pear.  A bit blurry on the palate following the lower-alcohol wines from Deux Montille, showing less of the floral and mineral qualities it displayed from barrel a year ago.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet

($57) Pale yellow.  Very ripe peach on the slightly reduced nose.  Sweeter and fruitier than the Chassagne, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the round, pliant middle palate.  Better fruit and verve here, and more thrust on the back end.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Saint-Aubin Remilly

($40) Good pale color.  Complex, minerally aromas of lemon, ripe apple and wet stone.  Broad, ripe and showy, but with underlying stoniness giving the wine good grip. The dry, rising finish dusts the palate with spices and minerals.  This has turned out very well.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne

Very pale yellow.  Apple and a hint of exotic fruits on the nose.  Ripe and supple but without quite the energy of the Remilly.  Very dry white peach and citrus flavors close with a dusty edge.  This needs time to express itself but I wanted more life in the mouth.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Meursault Les Perrieres

($81) Pale yellow.  Reticent nose hints at wet stone and soft citrus fruits.  Rich and fat, with broad, palate-saturating peach and mineral flavors.  Nicely integrated acidity gives this wine a drier impression than the 2010.  But with less floral character, it projects less personality today.  Finishes broad and dry, with a crushed stone quality.


2009 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet

($607) Tight nose dominated by stony minerality and citrus peel.  Then rich and ripe but quite backward and classically dry on the palate.  Strong stoniness currently dominates the wine's fruit, and yet this bottle came across as more open-knit than Etienne de Montille's Puligny-Montrachet Cailleret from the family domain, which preceded it in my tasting of his various projects.  Finishes with an appley note.

(Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, MA; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; Veritas, Beverly Hills, CA)
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