The fruit in 2008 was a bit higher in malic acidity than it was in 2010, said Bruno Colin, but the maturity levels were similar. And there's no shortage of acidity in the 2010s, he added, as some wines have as much as 5 grams per liter. The malos finished during the January through March period, but except for the first couple of cuvees, the wines will spend several months in tank after being racked and will be bottled next March. Colin noted that the 2009s will drink well early but wondered if they would gain with bottle age. He added that his father Michel likes the "round and opulent" style of the 2009 vintage.
Good pale yellow. White peach, citrus fruits, spices and a hint of resiny oak on the nose. Juicy, peppery and on the lean side, with slightly tart flavors of citrus peel, spices and minerals. Could use more stuffing.
Aromas of lemon, lime and pear. Juicy, saline and firmly built; fairly lean but with more intensity and length than the Charmois. Solidly structured village wine with a lemony finish.
Exuberant aromas of yellow peach, ripe pear, white pepper and spices. Broad, ripe and round, with ripe pear and stone fruit flavors complicated by a note of pineapple. Finishes with a firm citrus edge and a slight dryness from oak tannins (Colin uses 30% to 35% new oak for his crus).
Subtle aromas and flavors of lemon and pear lifted by a floral element. Suave and quite dry, with lively acidity giving cut to the middle palate and intensifying the fruit. This firmly structured wine is youthfully tight today but offers lovely finesse.
Pale lemon-yellow. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of pear and smoke; this only finished its malo in late March. Dense, spicy and quite dry, with an edge of lemony acidity keeping the fruit under wraps. A bit disassociated today and clearly in an awkward stage.
Lively aromas and flavors of lemon, pear, spearmint, menthol and crushed rock. Strong lemony acidity and the wine's menthol element give the back half a slightly bitter edge. Will this be more pliant by the time it goes into bottle?
Pale color. White peach, lemon, grapefruit, wild herbs and flowers on the pure, subtle nose. The palate offers lovely penetrating citrus flavors with a a restrained sweetness. This has more stuffing to buffer its acidity than the foregoing samples. Finishes with noteworthy length and white flower perfume. Colin's parcel is 200 meters long and features three different types of soil.
Subtle aromas of lemon, stone, menthol and licorice. Lemony and quite dry, with a distinctly dusty texture to its flavors of citrus zest and minerals. Still a bit tart on the back end and rather inscrutable today. From deeper soil at the base of the hillside.
Ripe yellow fruits with hints of apple and spices on the nose. Sweet, round and fruity but with penetrating mineral-driven acidity giving it palate-staining intensity. Still a touch of sugar to be fermented. Impressively dense wine with a firm, very long finish.
Reduced nose hints at menthol, white pepper and flowers. Supple, stony and quite dry, in a distinctly rocky and rather Puligny-like style. Broad but closed wine with a dry, citrussy finish. Not yet showing its personality.
Aromas of apple and spicy oak lifted by a floral topnote. Dry-verging-on-austere, with spice and stone flavors currently dried by oak. The dusty finish hints at underripe pineapple. Seems a bit undernourished: I wanted more sweetness of fruit.
Very ripe, exuberant aromas of candied peach and vanillin oak, along with a slightly lactic quality. Broad and supple but turned a bit warm in the glass, with spicy, vanillin oak dominating underlying stone fruit flavors. Some alcoholic harshness on the finish.
Enticing aromas and flavors of fruit salad and flowers. Supple and sweet in the mouth, with a silkier, finer-grained texture than the Chaumees. This coats the mouth nicely without leaving any impression of weight or heat.
Pale yellow. Subdued aromas of pear, pineapple, menthol and warm stones. Suave, fine-grained and classic, with considerable power to its citrus and mineral flavors. Finishes stony and dry, with firm underlying structure and very good length.
Pear, menthol and honey on the nose. Broad, gentle and full in the mouth, offering plenty of stuffing and sweetness along with a slight alcoholic warmth. A bit more exotic than it appeared to be from barrel a year ago. The alcohol here is close to 14%.
($120) Sexy, lightly reduced aromas of minerals, smoke and hazelnut. Rich, sweet and fine-grained, with the strongest minerality of this set of 2009s. Rather powerful wine with noteworthy depth and structure. Concentrated lemon and vanillin oak flavors are dry but quite rich. The lingering finish nicely balances fruits and minerals.