In both Chablis and the Cote d'Or, the summer of 2010 was not hot, said Philippe Drouhin, and the plants did not lose their acidity. "We had a high percentage of malic acidity, similar to 2008, but the overall acid level was a bit lower in 2010. We started picking in Puligny-Montrachet several days after the rains on September 12. Those who did not spray late enough risked getting leaf damage, which would have led to slow, incomplete ripening," Drouhin added. "There's a botrytis element in some wines that gives an impression of ripeness even when it's not really there." A few of the 2010s I tasted at Drouhin at the beginning of June were just at the end of their malolactic fermentations.

2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Meursault

Medium bright yellow.  Expressive aromas of stone fruits, lichee and nut oil.  Moderately dense and easygoing, with a tactile, dusty texture and enticing sweetness.  This substantial village wine (13.5% alcohol) carries sound acidity.  The saline, spicy finish offers good persistence.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet

Pale yellow with a faint green tinge.  Pear, white flowers and a hint of banana on the nose.  In a gentle, even soft, style but with good sappiness to the flavors of peach, flowers and menthol.  There's still a trace of malic acidity remaining in one component of this blend.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet

Slightly reduced aromas of hazelnut and salty minerality.  More dry and classic than the other village wines here, showing a distinctly saline, tactile aspect to go with its stone fruit flavors.  The longest of the trio, dusting the palate with powdered stone on the back end.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc

Medium bright yellow.  Complex, aristocratic nose offers citrus peel, peach, apricot, crushed stone, white pepper and a whiff of lees.  Fat, sweet and seamless, with complex, saline notes of lemon, stone and smoky minerality.  Very smooth and round wine with a subtle, long finish.  There's nothing overripe about this beauty, which I find much more precise and satisfying than the 2009 version.

2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres

Salty yellow peach and pineapple on the nose.  Sweet and quite ripe, with pineapple and floral flavors complemented by a sweaty curry powder quality.  Dry, dense and saline, and quite youthfully closed today.  This should evolve slowly.

2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Meursault Perrieres

Some SO2 currently blunts citrus and smoke aromas.  Then salty, rich and opulent, with tactile stone fruit flavors dusting the palate.  Without any easy sweetness, this is hard to assess today.  I wanted a bit more lift for Perrieres.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche

Highly nuanced nose combines fresh peach, pear, brown spices, curry powder and white flowers.  Rich, thick and dense; fruitier than the Clos des Mouches but complicated by salty minerality.  Really dusts the palate on the tactile, solid, subtly sweet back end.  Boasts near-grand cru texture.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Batard-Montrachet

(not yet sulfured):  Medium yellow.  Brooding aroma of clove oil and menthol.  Tactile but a bit blocked by SO2 today, offering notes of mint, menthol and crushed stone.  Seems a bit tired on the end, and less fresh than the Morgeot Laguiche.  This will need another look from the bottle.  This cuvee required very little batonnage, noted Philippe Drouhin, while a number of the other 2010s were more in need of enrichment.


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne

(not yet racked):  Cool aromas of quinine, mint and peppery spices.  At once dense and weightless, with a strong stony quality to its highly complex flavors of citrus, white peach, speamint and menthol.  Builds impressively on the back half, finishing quite dry and perfumed, with hints of lemon and lime and a fine dusting of tannins. 


2010 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche

(14.6% alcohol; still a bit of malic acidity remaining):  Medium yellow.  Ripe peach and apricot dominate the nose.  Fat, sweet and seamless, with an almost exotic fruit quality nicely countered by sound ripe acidity (the finished wine will have about 4.4 g/l acidity).  Large-scaled but also subtle and harmonious wine that conveys a strong impression of sweetness.  The grape sugars mounted quickly due to millerandage, noted Drouhin.  This is a wine of impressive size but I find the Corton-Charlemagne more representative of the 2010 vintage.


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Meursault

($46) Pale yellow-gold.  Very ripe aromas of mirabelle, peach schnapps, marzipan and menthol.  Fat, honeyed and sweet, with just enough acidity to support its peach syrup flavor.  Thick and smooth but needs more definition and verve.  I find this a bit heavy.

2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet

($56) Light yellow.  Candied peach and exotic flowers on the nose.  Less sweet than the Meursault, with more shape to the flavors of peach and dusty minerals.  Good lemony verve gives the middle palate a much lighter touch.  Finishes with good length and grip.

2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet

($56) Light yellow.  Fruit-driven pear and peach nectar aromas complicated by floral and menthol notes.  Chewy and tactile but smooth, with a fine grain to its yellow fruit flavors.  Broad, rich and round but kept vibrant by nicely integrated acidity.  Finishes clean and firm.  I'd drink this after the Meursault but before the Puligny.

2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc

($113) Bright yellow.  Lemon-lime, peach nectar, spearmint, vanilla and acacia flower on the nose.  Juicy and intense but not hard, with a firm acid spine giving life to the flavors of lemon zest, vanilla and spices.  Nicely round and surprisingly approachable for this bottling.  Finishes with good length but does it have a hidden dimension?

2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres

($102) Bright medium yellow.  Ripe peach and nectarine aromas complicated by flowers, dusty brown spices and vanillin oak.  Ripe and smooth on the palate, with an impression of dusty extract to the peach and floral flavors.  This nicely balanced wine shows better flavor intensity and freshness in bottle than it did in barrel but is still in a rather easygoing, approachable style.


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Meursault Perrieres

($111) Full yellow.  Very ripe apple on the nose, with some resiny high tones.  Rich, chewy and sweet, with slightly aggressive peach and spiced apple flavors.  Aeration brought intriguing hazelnut and leesy nuances but I don't find the stony cut and reserve--or the mineral energy--of classic Perrieres.  In a fruit-driven style and a bit edgy on the finish.  Where can this go in bottle?


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche

($114) Very ripe aromas of apricot, apple and spices.  Broad, rich and ripe, with an almost exotic character to the pear and peach flavors.  A real fruit bomb in the mouth:  rich, round and very 2009.  This boasts early sexy appeal.


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Batard-Montrachet

($408) Good full yellow with a gold tinge.  Ripe aromas of apricot and honey.  Large-scaled, silky and exotic, with a slightly phenolic character to the ripe apricot fruit.  Impressively big but I wanted more definition, cut and complexity.  Finishes with a suggestion of warmth.


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne

($172) Medium bright yellow.  Ripe aromas of ginger, lime, apple, lavender and botanical herbs.  Suave and fine-grained but on the dry side, with spice currently dominating fruit.  Offers good breadth and a restrained sweetness but is this taut enough to reward cellaring?  I don't find the mineral cut or expanding aftertaste of the best examples of this cru.


2009 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche

($745) (14.6% alcohol):  Medium yellow.  Oily aromas of nectarine, apricot, smoke, ginger and marzipan.  Large-scaled and expansive Montrachet, with sexy stone fruit, spice and dusty mineral flavors showing no rough edges.  This is almost too big for the mouth!  More exotic notes of pineapple and honey emerged with aeration.  Finishes with plenty of dusty minerality.  I'd give this five years in the cellar, but I wonder if it has the tautness or tension for a long evolution in bottle.

(Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY)
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