Arnaud Ente told me that he had planned to start harvesting on September 18 in 2010 but moved up the date by three days due to the rain on September 12 (and the 9th as well), noting that "the riper grapes turned chocolatey very quickly. But they were magnificent until then." He benefited from cool mornings during the harvest and reported that his wines finished with very healthy acidity levels in the 4.4 to 4.6 grams-per-liter range. (The 2009s actually finished in the same range, he added, but their pHs were not as low as those of 2010.) In spite of some problems with the skins in 2010, there really weren't any rotten grapes to eliminate, unlike in 2008, when he eliminated both gray and noble rot. Still, estate-wide yields were down 30% to 40% from the levels of 2009. "The 2010s are a bit more concentrated and deep than the 2008s, due in part to very low yields," he summarized. Ente noted that he began picking earlier than most of his neighbors back in 2000 and has no regrets. He does not believe in stirring the lees.
Greenish yellow. Complex aromas of lemon and lime peel and toasty lees. At once sweet and penetrating, with captivating, juicy nectarine and citrus flavors dominating. Very pure, succulent, long village wine with excellent cut. The crop level here was a very reasonable 37 hectoliters per hectare, according to Ente. (Incidentally, the 2010 Bourgogne Blanc, with aromas of flavors of citrus and stone fruits and white flowers, and terrific density and cut, should be a knockout.)
Pale straw-yellow. Deeply pitched, expressive aromas of orange, lemon drop, wild herbs and toast. In a richer, rounder style than the village wine, sweet on entry but with excellent acidity accentuating the impression of lemony cut. Finishes long and brisk. This wine is evolving very slowly, like the 2008 did, says Ente.
Bright pale yellow. Reticent nose hints at lemon drop. Quite tight and minerally in the mouth, showing less easy sweetness than the Clos des Ambres in spite of its slightly exotic orange and honey flavors. Very imploded today, and increasingly citrussy toward the back. Finishes quite tight. A rich but very elegant style, from lighter soil.
Pale green-yellow color. Crushed stone, lime and white flowers on the perfumed nose. Rich, sweet and fine-grained, with superb intensity and juiciness to the fresh nectarine and citrus flavors. Density perfectly cut by lively acidity. Finishes long and bracing, with sneaky richness. I love this style.
Greenish yellow. Discreet but complex nose offers lovely perfume of rose petal, orange oil and nutmeg complicated by coffee and honey nuances. Fatter and oilier than the Goutte d'Or but quite dry. For all its sappy breadth, this comes across as youthfully disjointed today and in need of time to knit. But impressively thick and very long on the aftertaste, with firm-edged acidity and a lightly saline character giving the wine excellent grip.
Yellow-green. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of white peach, nectarine, white flowers and hazelnut. Sweet, dense and sappy in the mouth, with outstanding energy to the flavors of citrus peel, candied peach and honey. Quite youthfully imploded on the back end, finishing with terrific verve. From a crop level of just 23 hectoliters per hectare, according to Ente. Wonderfully elegant wine in the making, but seems a bit less ripe than the Seve du Clos
Pale green-yellow. Nectarine and nut oil aromas lifted by a floral topnote. Fat and sweet but fresh, with white peach, citrus and orchard fruit flavors lifted by a spicy component. A real essence of Meursault, finishing with very good length and a slight warmth. (As in most successful years, Ente's Aligote and Bourgogne Blanc are well worth seeking out; the Bourgogne in particular boasts a lovely balance of ripe apricot fruit and strong acidity for the vintage.)
Pale yellow. Fresh nectarine and peach aromas sexed up by hazelnut. Dry but stuffed with ripe peach and citrus flavors. Classically styled Meursault, with a dry, brisk finish. Drink the basic village wine now and give this a few years in the cellar.
Reticent nose hints at lemon zest and spices. Suave but quite dry and imploded, with very refined, fine-grained lemon and stone flavors carrying through to the long, bracing finish. More pliant and a bit less austere than the 2010 version and perhaps marginally better balanced. From light soil with a lot of small stones.
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Flowers, wild herbs and menthol on the rather cool nose. Then large-scaled, concentrated and rich, with sexy, subtly sweet flavors of peach, white flowers and vanilla. Delicate and fine-grained on the one hand and impressively dense and deep on the other. Already offers great appeal but there's no rush to drink this wonderfully aromatic 2009.
Pale yellow with a green tinge. Tangy aromas of lemon and powdered stone. This has the precision, penetration and impression of saline dry extract of a topnotch 2010, but in a slightly fatter and sweeter package. Wonderful intensity and cut here. The very long finish displays bracing lift. Another wine that transcends its vintage.
Very pale green. Perfumed aromas of white nectarine and spring flowers. Tactile-verging-on-painful, with terrific cut to its steely flavors of white stone fruits. Persistent, harmonious acidity gives this wine great juicy appeal. Not quite as powerful as the Seve du Clos but this is even finer and more complex. A lovely expression of terroir, no mean trick for a very early-ripening vineyard in a vintage like 2009.