Thomas Morey told me that he's now doing a "tighter debourbage" and that he carried out a maximum of five batonnages in 2010. He believes that these changes will allow him to make a less opulent, full-blown style of wine. The malolactic fermentations in 2010 were finished by the beginning of April and the wines had been racked and sulfited by the time of my visit. Morey is farming his vines organically as of 2011.
Pale green-yellow color. Aromas and flavors of peach, honey, brown spices and lichee. Dry and lightly saline; a step up in flavor intensity from Morey's basic Saint-Aubin. Finishes firmly dry and a bit edgy.
Pale yellow. High-toned aromas of peach blossom and honey complemented by a sexy leesy nuance. Sweet pineapple fruit shows decent acidity but could nonetheless use a bit more thrust. Finishes with good persistence.
(from a parcel on the Puligny border, under Enseigneres; at 13.8% potential alcohol, this was the ripest fruit in 2010): Aromas of apricot and pineapple. Generous and open-knit, with just enough acidity to give shape to the sweet yellow fruit flavors. This round wine finishes with a slightly dusty saline quality. Larger-scaled than the examples from Saint-Aubin.
Pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of ginger, white flowers and mint. A step up in both texture and acidity from the Ouilliers, but in a cooler and more citrussy style. Good sappy, chewy wine with a juicy, firm finish. This will call for a few years of bottle aging.
Pale, bright yellow. Complex if somewhat exotic nose combines orange blossom, quince, lemon, honey and lichee. Big, sweet, pliant and soft, with dominant flavors of pineapple and lichee. This nicely concentrated wine finishes with good vivacity and sneaky length.
Pale, bright yellow-green. Shy aromas of lemon and mint. Juicy, citrussy and tight, offering less give than the Embrazees. A rather imploded, backward wine with a solid spine of acidity and minerality. The juicy, dusty finish will call for some aging. Will this expand in bottle? With 2011, Morey will add some vines from very white soil in the lieu-dit Les Petit Clos to this wine, which until now has been a blend of Les Fairendes and La Brussonne.
Pale bright yellow. Citrus fruit and lichee aromas complicated by a subtle floral quality on the reticent nose. Fat and broad but rather inexpressive, showing more saline and peppery notes than primary fruit. A tad dry on the finish. Morey picked this fruit a couple days before his other parcels as the grapes "were starting to turn." I found myself wishing for a bit more fruit expression.
(two-thirds new oak): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Subtly complex aromas of peach oil, lemon and flowers, along with a hint of spicy oak. Suave and seamless, with fresh flavors of peach and marzipan. Nicely balanced, dry and classic, with noteworthy depth of flavor and a lively spicy aftertaste. These vines were planted in 1986 and were purchased by Morey in 2002 (2005 was the first release of this bottling).
Medium lemon-yellow. Aromatic nose combines musky peach, lemon zest and clove oil. Fat, broad and sweet on the front half, then tighter and more citrussy on the back, with solid underlying minerality giving grip to the sappy, saline, mounting finish. Communicates the energy of the vintage and leaves the taste buds vibrating. No shortage of power here.
Bright, light yellow. Deep aromas of apricot, pineapple and hazelnut. Powerful, ripe and very dry, with a solid mineral underpinning and youthfully aggressive acidity giving the wine a tart quality today. Distinctly austere, even tannic, on the finish. This will need time to harmonize. The fruit was picked early as the skins were starting to turn.
Full yellow. Fruit salad, honey and nougat on the ripe, exotic nose, with an oak element building with air. Then dry and penetrating on the palate, with strong acidity giving a slightly harsh edge to the exotic fruit and nutty oak flavors. The warm finish could use more definition.
Straw-yellow. Ripe pear, tangerine and white flowers on the nose. Fatter and smoother than the Combes, but some edgy acidity gives the finish a slight dryness. Offers good clarity of flavor, though.
Bright pale yellow. Lemon, oak char and a whiff of iodine on the nose. Concentrated but brisk and light on its feet, with excellent definition to the lemon and saline flavors. Good sappy, dry wine, given juiciness on the back by lively lemony acidity. Offers excellent cut for the cru and for the vintage.
Bright yellow. Musky aromas of smoke, light sulfides and white pepper. Chewy, spicy and intensely flavored, with a penetrating quality to the sweet, rather silky stone fruit flavors. Finishes long and perfumed.
Bright yellow-straw color. Aromas of lemon cream, clove oil and smoked meat, complicated by musky lees. Fat, supple, rich and harmonious; in a round and fairly full style but nicely dry. Just enough piquant lemon and mineral flavor to give shape to this seamless wine. The long finish hints at a honeyed warmth but is kept fresh by dusty minerality.