Vincent Morey told me that the 2010s showed a very good combination of richness and acidity at the outset but that, after the malolactic fermentations, some of the wines display less nervosite than he would have predicted. "The 2008s have more tartaric acidity and vibrancy than the 2010s, but also more pineappley surmaturite," he noted. He also mentioned that he picked later in 2010 than did his brother Thomas. The chardonnay malos were over by February, and the wines had been racked, assembled and returned to barrel on their fine lees in early spring. Morey likes to use about 40% new oak for his crus, so he showed me samples from one-year-old barrels, which he felt would be most representative of the ultimate blends.
Bright pale yellow. Aromatic nose offers fruit salad, honey and spices. A rather exotic fruit bomb on the palate, with a sweet, honeyed aspect suggesting very ripe fruit. Has just enough acidity to keep its balance but finishes a bit warm.
Pale yellow-green. Very ripe aromas of apricot, honey and lichee. Less aromatic than the Les Hates, and a bit youthfully disjointed today, but deeper and more structured. Finishes with lingering pineapple and spice. From 50-year-old vines.
Pale yellow. Fruit salad and musky lees on the nose. Fat, peachy and sweet, but nicely framed and lifted by spice and mineral elements. The dusty, classically dry finish offers good verve. These 55-year-old vines are planted on thin soil over rock.
Bright yellow. Musky overripe pear, pineapple and flowers on the nose. Nicely concentrated peach fruit shows surprising acidity and cut if modest nuance. Finishes fruity and sweet, with good dusty grip. This will give early pleasure.
(aging in 50% new oak): Pale, green-tinged yellow Subtle aromas of mirabelle, honey, clove and spicy oak. Very ripe, chewy and sweet, with apricot and honey flavors carrying a full load of spicy oak. The sweet finish throws off saline and marzipan notes.
Clove, earth and oak spice on the nose. Rather exotic on the palate, with candied yellow fruit and honey flavors dominating. This very ripe wine finishes with a slight warmth, leaving a scent of apricot jam in the empty glass. Will probably be best for early drinking.
(13.9% alcohol, from vines picked at the beginning of the harvest): Good medium yellow. Superripe aromas of apricot, passion fruit, honey and clove. Fat, lush and sweet, but showing more chardonnay fruit than Burgundian minerality. Not heavy but a bit exotic. Leaves a slight sweet/sour impression on the moderately long finish.
Bright palish yellow. Ripe peach, orange juice and gingery spice on the nose. Denser but more subdued than the last few samples, with peach and orange flavors conveying an impression of solidity thanks to underlying mineral grip. Finishes dusty but supple. Very attractive Caillerets, but still more yellow fruit than white in style.
Bright medium yellow. Yellow peach, menthol and spicy oak on the reticent nose. Fat, ripe and sweet, conveying an impression of strong extract and sucrosite. Very ripe yellow fruit flavors offer noteworthy concentration but will require a year or two of bottle aging to express themselves.
(the first vintage in which this wine is from "mostly different vines, from rockier soil more on the Chassagne-Montrachet side" than the Batard of brother Thomas): Bright medium yellow. Orange juice and a strong musky quality on the nose. Very good intensity to the lush peach and spicy oak flavors. All about yellow fruits, like most of the Morey 2010s. Finishes with noticeable dusty tannins.
($41) Bright yellow with green highlights. Expressive aromas of lemon oil, white pepper, flowers and iodiney dusty stone. Rich, dense and sweet but with surprising acidity and strong minerality giving the mid-palate a penetrating quality. Finishes with a faint youthful bitterness.
($51) Bright, pale, green-tinged yellow. Sexy aromas of peach pit, flowers, smoke, iodine and sexy lees. Smooth and silky in the mouth, with musky flavors of truffle oil and peach. Not overly fruity but very satisfying village wine, for enjoying over the next three or four years.
($63) Pale yellow. Reticent nose hints at lavender and vanillin oak. Then sweet and concentrated on the palate, with good punch to the flavors of pear and peach. Finishes with enticing sweetness, but nicely integrated acidity keeps the wine fresh.
($63) Aromas of lemon, menthol and wet stone. Tight and cool in the mouth, with harmonious lemony acidity keeping the menthol and stone flavors under wraps today. Not at all expansive today, but the wine's improvement with aeration suggests that it's in a sullen phase today.
($64) Light straw-yellow. Aromas of underripe pineapple, medicinal herbs, wet stone, honey and licorice. Plump but firm-edged, with stone and honey flavors dried by a disjointed streak of acidity. Needs more sweetness of fruit. One senses the alcohol on the back end.
($75) Pale yellow-straw. Discreet nose offers white peach, powdered stone, white flowers and spices. Juicy and harmonious; less plump but more refined than the Baudines, with better integration of acidity. The wine's tight core of stone fruit flavors is unforthcoming today but there's good balance here, and a juicy, lingering finish.
($89) Bright pale yellow. Reticent nose hints at stone fruits and white pepper. Fat, broad and full but a bit youthfully clenched, offering more texture than fruit interest today. Strong caramel oak and ginger give the middle palate a sweetness, and finishing smoky minerality keeps the wine light on its feet. But this is still a baby.