Verdicchio has come a long way since we first began drinking some pretty insipid wines of the region in the late 1970s. Made largely from the ancient Verdicchio variety, the Verdicchio dei Castello di Jesi, plantings cover the hills that flank the river Esinio in the Marches of central Italy. Back in the 70s, the wines were most distinguished by their fish-shaped bottle. Crop levels were high, and you really needed a lot of cream sauce with your fish to counter the lack of concentration and sharp acid spikes of the wines. In the last 25 years, no country in the world has made greater qualitative strides than Italy and no white wine producing area of Italy has grown qualitatively any more than the DOC, Verdicchio dei Castello di Jesi.
The dramatic rise to international prominence has largely been spearheaded by a handful of superb family-owned estates, one of the most important of which is Brunori. Having made huge strides in the vineyards, tightening spacing, reducing yields, these beautiful whites are now ripe, supple and complex. This 2006 -- an excellent vintage for the region with both richness and firm acid balance -- the Brunoris spike this bottling with a bit of Trebbiano to enhance structure.
This delicate white has a certain plumpness that marries nicely with the benchmark "nuttiness" of Verdicchio. Enjoy this great Spring time white with pasta and light cream sauces, grilled white fish, salads.