2007 Domaine Magellan Vin de Pays de L'Herault Rouge
Bruno Lafon grew up making wine at Comte Lafon in Meursault, one of our top 10 estates in the world. So when he left Clos de la Barre and purchased this jewel of a property in L'Herault with its old-vine Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, he took more than a little bit of know-how with him.
One thing about Bruno Lafon; he hasn't changed much since we first met him in the early 1980s, pulling his tractor into the courtyard at Comte Lafon. While brother Dominique was the consummate front man, Bruno much preferred the shadows, letting his work speak for itself. Bruno is still quiet. Still a bit timid, never tooting his own horn. But when we called from the road, having lost our way to Magellan en route from Montpellier, Bruno was anything but reserved. For the first time in 25 years, the brilliant, understated Burgundian winemaker became an unabashed self promoter. "No hurry. I'm drinking a bottle of this 2007 with some tapenade. If you're late, I'll just open another. I feel like I'm back in Meursault...with the Santenots." We stepped on the gas.
How to describe this deep ruby, rich, yet light-on-its-feet blend? Imagine the richness of Vinsobres, but with aromatics that are taken up a notch -- more vibrancy, more nerve. The mid-palate has that Volnay-purity, but of course, more lush (after all, this is the SOUTH of France!), more opulent. The finish is so bright, so fresh. When we finished bottle number two and Bruno suggested we move on to Burgundy before dinner, we took one look at the hillsides at our 200 meter perch and just shook our heads. We just wanted to watch the timid Burgundian gloat just a little bit more.
Tasting Notes from the WineAccess Travel Log
"Gorgeous deep ruby color. Wonderful cassis/red fruit aromas, spiced with garrigue. Fine concentration, packed with cassis and red fruit aromas, but light on its feet, like the best of the wines from this drawn out growing season. Long and persistent on the finish. Drink now at 60 degrees for the primary fruit splendor, or age for up to four years."