The Anjou Brushstroke

We are huge fans of Dan Goldfield's Dutton Ranch bottlings, but we've never offered them before. Why? Because these have always been classic, sinewed wines-- Chardonnay that tends to take a few years to open up. That doesn't bother us, but we've learned it's not necessarily what our customers like. So we've hesitated. This 2007 changes all that.

What was different? Two things. First, it was 2007, a vintage that will no doubt go down as one of the most luscious of the last decade in the Russian River Valley. Second, it was the addition of a new vineyard site to Dan Goldfield's Dutton Ranch bottling. The parcel is called JJJS, but we like to call it "the Anjou brushstroke."

The 2007 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay is quite simply luscious -- with a deep, rich kernel of ripe pear fruit, the spice that comes only from the old Wente clone, and the length that is just pure Dutton Ranch. One more time, you can wait 5-7 years to drink this benchmark Chardonnay, but you won't. It's too delicious right out of the starting block.

So what's the secret behind this glorious Chardonnay? Is it the long, drawn-out growing season of 2007 that has us salivating over many of the Pinots and Syrahs of Russian River? Or was it the special sauce, the Anjou bushstroke, provided by JJJS? "It's hard to say," Dan told us. "2007 is spectacular, one of the best vintages I've seen on Dutton Ranch in 25 years. But I have a sneaky suspicion about JJJS. I had the Duttons plant JJJS a dozen years ago. Then I lost it. Now I have it back. It may well be the secret ingredient."

Tasting Notes
"Well-structured, with rich layers of creamy fig, melon and apricot, gaining depth and complexity on the long finish. Drink now through 2011."
91 points--Wine Spectator "Insider," May 6, 2009