Chateau Signac
He came from Ducasse, traveled down from Paris, bypassed Chateauneuf, and made his way to a single cellar in Chusclan, the only proprietary cellar in this sleepy village. His name is Gerard Margeon, and he's the head sommelier for Alain Ducasse, managing purchases worldwide from over 11,000 suppliers. But he had traveled to Chusclan following an invitation from Chateau Signac proprietor Jean-Marc Amez-Droz to sample the 2007 wines and to finalize assemblages. Most particularly, Margeon had come for the Combe d'Enfer. Honestly, we had never heard of Chateau Signac. Chusclan was just a dot on the Michelin map. But when the sommelier told Jean-Marc that he wanted the Combe d'Enfer for Benoit and Alain Ducasse in New York, Anez-Droz started looking for a way to get it there. He found WineAccess. It's easy to see why Margeon made his way to Chateau Signac. The Combe d'Enfer, particularly this rich, juicy, but fabulously fresh and spicy 2007, is a rarity in the southern Rhône. Margeon said, "I can find a lot of excellent, rich 2007s, but if I want a wine to serve with game, with gibier, the Combe d'Enfer is hard to beat -- particularly at the price." Why, in this small village where 85% of the 256-hectare production goes to the local cooperative, is Signac so distinguished? Because the viticultural practices under this brilliant ingenieur agronome are as rigorous as anywhere in the southern Rhône. Jean-Marc's family bought Chateau Signac in the late 1980s. The property was remarkable, with sandy calcareous soil more typical of the best spots of Chateauneuf than the villages of the southern Rhône. The mistral blows fiercely, keeping the vines clean, the wines fresh. But there was something else; an unusual mix of varieties including a healthy dose of spicy, lower pH Counoise, one of the secrets of Combe d'Enfer and Margeon's magical match with gibier. How best to describe the 2007 Combe D'Enfer. Imagine a sand-soil Chateauneuf somehow spiked with freshness, lift and just a touch of rusticity, a wine that loves oxygen almost as much as it likes gibier. Why else would arguably the most talented sommelier in the world make a special trip to Signac? Jean-Marc has earmarked 250 cases for WineAccess of Combe d'Enfer 2007. (We've also been able to find him an importer who will take care of M. Margeon in New York!). If you like to cook as much as you like to drink great wine, don't miss this. Serve it with roasted duck or just a simple farm-raised poulet roti, and you'll understand why M. Margeon made the trip to Chusclan. Just $18.50/bottle (on cases), a crazy price for this wine. Shipping is included on 6.
Marechal de Gramont's Duck In the 17th century, "Côte du Rhône" was the name of an administrative district in the Vicariate of Uzès (Gard), where the wines were particularly renowned. Regulations were introduced in 1650 to guarantee their origin and their quality. By an Edict of the King in 1737, all the casks that were to be used for carriage and sale had to be branded with the letters "C.D.R.". It was only in the middle of the 19th century that Côte du Rhône became Côtes du Rhône, by including the vineyards on the left bank of the Rhône. Chusclan wines have been renowned for a great many years. Olivier de Serres boasted of their virtues in the eighteenth century, and they were highly fashionable during the reign of Louis XIV thanks to a recipe invented by the Marchal de Grammont: "Lapins d'Arbousset". |
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Purchases being shipped to CA will include sales tax. |
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